Tenuta La Badiola

Tenuta La Badiola

Castiglione della Pescaia (GR)

Visited 9-12-2010

History is a very interesting subject. Without history, one cannot know where they come from or why things today are the way they are. Without history many things in our lives would be void of substance-this can transcend cultures, classes, and all aspects of life. Without history, one would not understand Tenuta La Badiola. Castiglione della Pescaia is a coastal town, small and charming. From the medieval castle atop the town hill one can see for miles and miles on a clear day. The first thing one does notice is the Casa Rossa, the red house, that sits at the edge of the marshlands of the region. In 1826, Grand Duke Leopold II made it his mission to begin to drain much of these lands so as to rid the region of the malaria epidemic. He first noted the problem from his summer lodging residence in a special little pocket between two hills where a spring flowed with clean fresh water; this site is Tenuta La Badiola. In these months, Leopold would hunt the famous cinghiale of the region and enjoy the cool coastal climate. Today the same pleasures can still be done. Many years later, to bring us to the present day, the property is much preserved in the same fashion as Leopold’s time, but of course improvements have occurred as well.

The property was purchased by the Moretti Family in the year 2000 and they began a large operation to restore and develop the estate. This is the same Moretti Family as that of Petra in Suvereto as well as Bellavista in Franciacorta. The estate spans some 500 Hectares, of which there are currently about 30 Hectares (75 acres) of vines planted. There are also old growth olive groves and woodlands on the property. In addition, the main attraction to the property is their luxurious resort, L’Andana. Named after the row of cypress and pine trees lining the driveway to the resort, this Alain Ducasse project includes a Michelin Star restaurant, Trattoria Toscana. It opened in 2004 and I can say firsthand that the amenities are extravagant and royal.

The vineyard project began in 2001 and was finished in 2004. They span both sides of the main resort building, taking advantage of the differences in the soil due to the varying mineral deposits from the flow of the Acquagiusta, the proper water from the natural spring. This is most important to the property, and all of their wines, except Acquadoro, bear this word on their label. Without this specialty of their property there would not exist a special site for vineyards. The vineyards are planted to Vermentino, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Alicante. The first vintage was 2005.

My tour was most special because it was with the Enologist of the estate, Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro. A young passionate individual who has a refreshing and very appropriate belief when it comes to his work. I first met him in Milano at the MaremmaWineShire expo, and knew then that it was imperative to follow up and visit with him again at the estate. I learned many things while on the tour, both technical as well as spiritual. We talked of the wines and the vineyards, and of the cellar and certain techniques being utilized, but what I most understood and took away from the visit was the belief that the wines are most well understood as a vessel of expression of the site where they are harvested, and how the enologist is the one who is responsible for delivering this expression as purely as possible. We spoke frankly about truths in winemaking, for instance that every vintage is different and that some are more difficult than others, something that some would be a bit shy in admitting. As of the products produced and released so far, all of the wines are vinified and aged without any oak influence. Experimentation began with the 2009 vintage of the Rosso, and we talked about the effects that oak has on wines. Alessandro gave a brilliant example of how oak is like makeup with a woman. A small amount can enhance beauty, but too much overwhelm and distort the true natural form. I hope that with the 2011 vintage he gets his large oak barrel to experiment with! One cannot truly understand the style of a winery/property without understanding the Enologist who is crafting the wine. And so let’s understand the wines a bit…

1) ‘Acquagiusta’ Vermentino 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

A fresh, pure, and focused example of the grape. As I have stated before, this is a wine to look for as it will be a popular wine in the very near future. Here is a bottling that definitely echoes my statement and would impress any wine drinker, especially when paired with foods from light antipasti through to fresh pasta and seafood. The color is a pale straw color with a light intensity and a soft, bright youthfulness to the eye. The aromas are crisp, with a strong essence of the coastal influence with a refreshing sandy and salty notes complimented by floral tinges behind. There is tart key lime citrus notes and white stone fruits on the palate with the lingering effect of the herbal shrubs of the area on the long dry finish.

2) ‘Acquagiusta’ Rosato 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (100% Alicante)

Alicante is a synonym for Grenache, and is grape that is on the rise in the Southern Maremma. Very easy to spot in the vineyard because the leaves turn bright red when mature. A lightly colored Rosato taking after the style of the Provence region in Southern France, a hot spot for Rose’ wines known the world over. The color is similar to the tinge of a ripe onion skin, derived from only 5 total hours of contact with the skins. The wine is described as ‘assertive but mellow,’ and I find that to be very fitting. It is elegant but powerful at the same time, comparable to the grace of an Olympic level female ice-skater. Plush red cherries and yellow peach skins are supported by a floral background and structured beautifully with bright crisp acidity.

3) ‘Acquadoro’ Viognier 2008 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

This is the only wine in the current production that does not bear the ‘Acquagiusta’ label but rather the ‘Acquadoro,’ (Golden Water) title. This wine is seen a bit differently than the others and is considered the flagship wine of the estate. This wine is highly refined and complex, showing the quality of the site as well as the skill of the Enologist in his craft. The wine has an intense golden color deep in concentration and heavy tears showing its high viscosity. The nose is very high in intensity and aromas, ripe with apricots and candied tropical fruits with a rich robust complexity and spice note to them. The palate was full bodied and flavorful, where the fruits were confirmed and the subtle florality awoke as well as the essence of the soil site rich in sand deposits. Because of its intensity, Viognier can be a difficult wine to pair with foods, but upon a round table discussion, we all agreed that the Tuscan antipasti would in general work well, and also the Sicilian kitchen offers many options.

4) ‘Acquagiusta’ Rosso 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

92 Points Wine Spectator

The sole red produced on the property is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Merlot (35%), and Syrah (30%). The 2007 vintage was vinified and aged purely in stainless steel tanks, and thus does not have any of the ‘makeup’ influence of the oak barrel. The focus is to preserve the richness of the fruits and deliver a true example of the site with which the grapes are harvested. The wine is an intense highly concentration color, almost purple to the eye with the edges softening a bit as it is just beginning to show a bit of age on the rim. The tears are firm, but not very heavy and show the appropriate moderate level of staining from the grapes and extractions. I would say the wine is full of fruit flavors, but not fruity per say, because it has complexity to make it multi-dimensional. Small dried black berry fruits and raisin notes are set against black olive and balsamic notes on the nose. The palate defines the fruits as cassis and black currants, with the extension of the balsamic notes converging into dark earth notes tinged with the herbal shrubs of the region. There is purity in the blend here, a long dry finish that balances the tannins and acids into harmony, each component working together towards a robust velvety structure. I could see this wine tasting great for at least 5-8 years.

Once again I would like to thank Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro for his time and knowledge. For so many, it is a rare privilege no often available to be able to be able to experience a winery and its products with the person who is the master craftsman. Again, I learned o much not only about the technical details but also about philosophies which I will carry on with me and pass on in the future. So remember everyone that life is short and one should always eat well, drink good wine, and always enjoy and not take for granted the company you are in while doing such things. Oh yeah, and to not be heavy handed with Life’s different ‘make-ups.’ Happy Holidays friends.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

http://www.tenutalabadiola.it/

info@tenutalabadiola.it

http://www.andana.it/