| Margaux's Carrelet with Carrots |
Brasserie Leon de Lyon
Lyon, France
Visited 20-12-2010
Welcome to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France. Paris has art and a famous tower, Lyon has their famous Bouchon’s and Brasserie on almost every corner. Crepe-makers in the streets and colorful Macarons filling adjacent pastry shop windows. I arrived on Monday the 20th, and was excited to finally be in the region of Bourgogne-Lyon lying in the heart of the Beaujolais commune- and even more excited to have my friend Margaux arriving to travel with. A familiar face for the holidays and a translator to boot! The city was beautiful all around, and my impression of the French people and cities only improved upon Marseille. Warm charming personalities and smiling faces passed cleaner streets across 2 rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, through wonderful little daily markets. A city all in all that I am positive everyone should visit.
The first night we wanted to celebrate a bit and go to a nice place, something about the Bistrot level (it goes café, bistrot, brasserie, and restaurant). Margaux’s travel book recommended Leon de Lyon as a One star Michelin establishment that boasted a famous Lyonnais chef and a century old setting. The place was very beautiful and the servers dressed in suits, a great facade put on. I will say though that the place did begin to fall short off the bat.
As a Sommelier I get excited about places that have received Michelin Star(s), because of what that should imply service and wine wise. The wine list was a bit meager in my opinion, and everything was current vintages, nothing presented had age on it. I choose a good go-to wine, E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2006. At 29 Euro I felt for that vintage it was fair and a good bottle to go with dinner and to begin to teach Margaux a bit about wines from Bourgogne/Rhone. The bottle that came out was the 2007, which I asked to confirm the misprint on the menu, and no attempt to check or substitute was offered.
As a Sommelier I get excited about places that have received Michelin Star(s), because of what that should imply service and wine wise. The wine list was a bit meager in my opinion, and everything was current vintages, nothing presented had age on it. I choose a good go-to wine, E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2006. At 29 Euro I felt for that vintage it was fair and a good bottle to go with dinner and to begin to teach Margaux a bit about wines from Bourgogne/Rhone. The bottle that came out was the 2007, which I asked to confirm the misprint on the menu, and no attempt to check or substitute was offered.
Furthermore it was the server assistant who presented and poured the initial taste and glass. A big disappointment from my professional standpoint.
Dinner began; we both made selections off the 3 course 24 Euro menu, with a Terrine and a bowl of Leek and Potato puree soup. Both were very well executed by the chef. Service continued on in a good manner, but to this point we were pouring our own wine and water.
The main course was an easy go to for me, Beef done in a gravy sauce with Swiss Chard and Roasted Potatoes, and for Margaux a White fish (Carrelet aka Sole) with sweet carrots. Again both prepared well and the execution of the food service was proper, although it was asked who was having what dish when delivered!
For dessert, a poached pear with a flaky pastry and raspberry sorbet as well as a pastry with an apple sauce. The pear was definitely the winner in both of our books, but again it was asked who was having what when delivered.
The wine was perfectly fine, but nothing special, as it was a base level Rhone wine that did display all of the proper red fruit qualities with the spice notes behind. The glasses for wine service, which it appeared to be for all the tables were very inadequate in style, shape, and size. I would expect them in a Bistrot for house wine, not a Michelin Starred Restaurant/Brasserie.
Overall I found the meal to be of good classic flavors executed properly, of a 3 star level. The service overall though was greatly suffering, and it was a bit perplexing to be honest how this establishment had achieved a Michelin rating when there are so many places that I have experienced that have outperformed them which do not. I give the service 1 star. The food was good, but overall, it was not good enough at the price levels to make me go back…a less than magical beginning to my Lyonnais dining experiences.
As you will see, the food gets better and the prices lower, there is light on the horizon for Lyon…and you will see very soon. Salute!
| Margaux's Doughnut Pastry with Apple |
| The night's winning dish, my poached pears! See how small the wine glasses are! |
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