La Part des Anges- Part Deux

 

Wine Bar La Part des Anges-Part Deux

Marseille, France

Visited 18-12-2010

So yes, Part Deux, the sequel and conclusion to my experiences of wine tasting in Marseille.  I would like to make a very important note before getting into the wines though, the French people that I have met up to this point, December 22nd, have been nothing but warm and friendly.  They have gotten a bad rap.  I think, like anywhere, the locals just want one to behave and be respectful.  As long as you don’t cause a wave in the pool, then the swimming is good for all.  Stereotypes are misconstrued on both ends and I have been pleasantly surprised thus far with my experience in France…especially with the language barrier present from my end.

And so, I returned for dinner on Saturday night and found the place busy yes, but not as roaring as the Friday night scene, but manageable.  I was pretty full still from the day before and wanted to go a bit of a different route, and delve into some cheese.  Both the same guys were working behind the bar, and both remembered me, a plus I guessed.  And so they were pleased and I was pleased, and I said let’s go with some cheese, a Chevre, or something close to it.  You order cheese there separately, by each cheese, so I was surprised and pleased when they gave me a second cheese, on the house, to try!  Goat’s milk, one dry and fresh with fennel seeds, like a Chevre in style, the other a creamy cheese with a tasty rind.

1) Producer Unknown Vouvray (2008?)

Again I like the laid back style, I ask and they pour, and I enjoy.  I asked for a Vouvray and I got one, but no time to see the label or the vintage…no big deal.  Vouvray is a place in the Loire Valley, in the Northwest, and is made from pure Chenin Blanc.   Not a common grape in California, but it’s unique and good.

Starbright and youthful, with a pale straw color slightly tinged by green hues, the wine had a medium concentration and a medium viscosity.  The nose was mild, and dominated by secondary flavors, much in the old world style.  It smelled waxy and strong with almond skin, and fruit behind of bruised yellow apples, a touch of candied lemon and some white table grapes.  The wine was dry with a high level of acid and a long finish-balanced and enjoyable throughout.  For one who is not familiar with Chenin Blanc, a Vouvray is about as classic as it gets.

2) Francois Villard Les Contours de Deponcins Viognier 2009

Viognier is a French varietal and is at its best from Condrieu in the Northern Rhone Valley.  This is a small place with expensive wines.  This bottling was from younger vines from good-but not great- sites around the Condrieu area.  This wine rocked.  Deep golden concentration and very youthful to sight, the wine had some heavy legs too.  Intense in aromas of grilled peaches and rounded with a bouquet of fresh colorful flowers.  The wine was strong and full bodied with a good rocky minerality on a dry, long and persistent finish.

3) Producer Unknown Cinsault (2008/9?)

By this point in the evening I was stuffing my face with cheese and decided I was going to be full by the end of it.  I told Oliver I wanted something young and fruity, and this is what he poured.  This is a blending grape from the Southern Rhone Valley that is also common in Provence, and it was the first time I had tried a pure form of it.  I would not call it fruity, but it was light and I now really understand how it can be beneficial as a blending varietal.  Very herbaceous on the nose, as well as loaded with dried potpourri flowers, and all the fruits detected were red berry fruits.  The palate was light in body and tannin, with only a medium level of acidity.  This is a grape that can do 2 things to a blend, increase aromatics on the nose, and soften more full bodied wines like Syrah and Mourvedre.  I also understand why it is so popular for Rose’ wines from the South of France for its aromatic qualities.  A good learning experience for me.

4) Chateau Roquefort ‘Les Mures’ Cotes du Provence 2005

A well known producer and a wine I have had tried before in California.  It is a blend of Grenach, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cinsault. Ruby red in color with a medium concentration, the wine was bright and beginning to show some signs of age.  The nose was clean with a medium intensity of dark red fruits and cool dark earth, chocolate like, with some cigar leaves.  There is more of the herbal Provencal herb quality on the palate, but not a whole lot going on as far as complexity.  The wine being a year or 2 maybe past its optimal drinking window.

All in all I definitely loved this bar.  The cheese filled me up, the bread was good, the wine flowed, oh yeah and the guys gave me a spirit at the end of the night before leaving.  I figured this American Sommelier had warmed them up enough to give a better view of Americans, although I fear it may be lost soon.  Again just be respectful and polite and roll with it.  So what was the spirit, well a Japanese Whisky of course, haha.  I said I liked Scotch and that’s what they poured, and it wasn’t bad either.  2 firsts in the same night, not bad I’d say.  Goodbye to Marseille and I am glad I found La Part des Anges, Salute!

My travel companion and good friend Margaux