Petra Winery

Petra


Suvereto (Livorno)

Visited 2-12-2010

Petra, Latin for rock, stands strong and bold like a chiseled piece of marble on the hillside where it resides in the Southern part of the Livorno Province. The estate lies within the Val di Cornia D.O.C. but the property could be considered a special microclimate all its own. Spanning across 300 Hectares, sprawled to the sea with olive groves and woodlands teaming with cinghiale, the 94 Hectares of vines are divided into parcels where the terroir is most suited for each varietal. The winery itself is state of the art, and also a state of art. Designed by famed architect Mario Botta, check out the San Francisco Modern Museum of Art, he incorporates a symbolism here that is tied perfectly with its functionality. Personally speaking, I cannot recall a more impressive facility. Everything is designed to benefit the wine first and foremost, but also with a pleasing visual ascetic.

Founded by Vittorio and his daughter Francesca Moretti, who also own and operate Bellavista in Franciacorta-Lombardy as well as Tenuta la Badiola-Castiglione della Pescaia, this was a site hand selected for its optimal terroir to begin their red wine project. The theme here is more in the ’Supertuscan’ style, emphasizing their unique placement on hillside lands near the sea. There is Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which is planted closer to the sea on lower altitudes, as well as Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc higher up on the property. There is also a very small patch of old vine white varietals which go into their dessert wine, L’Angelo di San Lorenzo. All of the vineyards share a common clay dominant soil that is naturally very rocky and high in minerals. Walking through the vineyards this was very evident. Their 1st vintage was in 1997 from vines that were pre-existing, since then they have expanded to the current 94 Hectares.

Production and aging of these wines is a very technical process, overseen by consulting French enologist Pascal Chatonnet, who also consults for Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and Vega Sicilia in Ribero del Duoro-Spain. Stainless steel is used for the base level wines fermentation, while 100 hectoliter French oak barrels are used for the top tier wines. There are two chai, or barrel rooms, one for the 1st year wines and one for the 2nd year wines-mimicking the Bordeaux style. Let us begin to explore the line of wines produced by Petra Winery…

1) ‘Ebo’ 2007 Val di Cornia Suvereto D.O.C.

91 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Named after the ancient Etruscan settlement of the region, Ebo is a blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For a wine that they deem entry level, around 13 Euro retail, I found it very pleasant and drinkable. Deep garnet color with a firm but clear concentration with tears that were strong and had some staining. Dark dry red fruits complimented by a dark earth quality. The palate is warm and robust, but nicely balanced and contains secondary flavors of the coastal vegetation/shrubs with tinges of coffee on the finish. Aged in seasoned Slovenian and French barrels of different sizes for 12 months, with a further 10 months in the bottle for refinements.

2) ‘Alto’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Sangiovese)

A new project for them, the 2006 being the first vintage they decided to do a pure Sangiovese wine. Definitely an experiment, as when discussing the winery as a whole I really understood that the whole project is still an experiment. I like this perspective, always learning-always progressing. This wine was ruby red in color with a firm but clear concentration with the rim beginning to fade out in color a tinge. The nose was very ripe, dark cherries and blueberries with the traditional smoky woodsy qualities of the Sangiovese varietal. The palate was plump and rich, with almost a tree sap quality to the herbal tinge, but with the natural acidity preserved enough to balance out the finish.

3) ‘Potenti’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Potenti is the vineyard name where these grapes are being sourced, and it translates to ‘powerful.’ Well named indeed. A purple garnet color with a high concentration and very youthful appearance, the tears were firm and had noticeable staining. There was a power to this wine which was masked by its youth. Definitely needs some time in the bottle to soften, but the future looks very bright. Sweet black fruits are kissed by the French oak influence on the nose. I noted black currants and black liquorice notes on the palate, with the finish hinting towards the emergence of the floral/earthy complexities. The wine was dry and full bodied with strong tannins and balanced acidity. I’d love to revisit this one in a couple of years…I doubt many will be able to wait that long!

4) ‘Quercegobbe’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Merlot)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate (2006 94 Points WA)

The Quercegobbe vineyard is a small strip intermixed next to some Cabernet Sauvignon and backing right up to the woodlands on the property. It is a very special vineyard which makes a very special wine. Highly rated in 2006, and living up to its acclaim with the 2007 vintage as well. It is my belief that the 2007 is on the same path and will develop beautifully for many years to come. A dark ruby-heavy garnet color with a firm but clear concentration. The wine is intense on the nose, plump ripe plums and dark cherries bursting in the glass all set against a red flower and warm dark rocky earth component. The palate is long and strong, silky tannins caress the dry finish. There are notes of coffee and subtle peppercorn spices with notes of balsamic vinegar on the back. The wine is aged in 600 L French barrique for about 15 months, 50% new and 50% seasoned, followed by 10 months in the bottle before release.

5) ‘Petra’ 2006 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot)

2007 Vintage 94 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

The flagship wine of the estate, the 2006 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot. Can anyone say ‘Supertuscan?’ While that is the general style of the house, this one really does put itself within the company of many of the big name wines of the Bolgheri D.O.C. ‘Supertuscans.’ A dark garnet color with a firm but clear concentration and tears that are also firm and showing some staining. The nose is pleasantly perfumed and intense with fruits of red currants and ripe berries in syrup and vanillin from the oak, but subtle and well integrated. The wine is intense in the mouth as well with the fruits reconfirmed and many of the secondary flavors from the nose transcending through also. Coffee and eucalyptus intermix with the dark rocky mineral rich earth notes. The wine is dry with a firm body and velvety tannins all in balance on a long dry finish. Aged for 18 months in French barrique, 80% new, followed by 18 months in the bottle for refinement.

I would like to thank Ettore Maggi for his wonderful wealth of knowledge and leading me on one of the absolute best winery tours of my life. I can only say that any trip to Tuscany should include an appointment to visit and tour this winery, it is a special piece of the region that I am sure will only continue to grow and achieve more accolades in the very near future. Find a bottle of their wine in America and get just a glimpse of what potential there is here.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

http://www.petrawine.it/