Marseille, France
Visited 17-12-2010
‘The place of angels’ as it is translated, even though the crowd seemed to have a few devils intermixed-in a good way. Recommended by a few people as the best wine bar in Marseille, and I can understand why. Their selections by the glass are vast and wide ranging in France, with a focus on the local wines of the Provence region. I went in for a small tasting after lunch and it was quiet, and the young hip gentleman working was welcoming and spoke great English. I went to the place 3 times in all, and am going to split the visits into 2 articles (4 wines per article) so as to keep it manageable. I will say right off this place was great overall, fun ambience and a great setting, much better part of town than L’Enoteka too I might add. A fun casual atmosphere that appealed to the serious wine buff and the leisure wine taster all the same.
1) F. Chidaine Tourane 2009
Last time I checked, this same wine was being offered by the glass at 58 Degrees & Holding in Midtown Sacramento. A pure varietal Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, it is a perfect way to get a meal started. Look for it to accompany light fair appetizers or a dry goat cheese from the same area, think Chevre here. Very light in color and concentration, with a moderate intensity of aromas. The flavors were slightly vegetal, along with some gooseberry accents. The aromas were pungent and very mineral laden- small cool rocks like dried out river rocks. Light and lively with crisp acidity on the finish.
2) Domaine Dirler (Deer-lar) Riesling Alsace 2009
Like I said, they had wines from all over France to try, not just Provence, and I have to say Riesling is probably my favorite white varietal out there, so I, of course, had to go there. It didn’t hurt that Alsace produces some of the richest and exotic Riesling wines in the world. Light golden in color and quite youthful; it was dry with a touch of residual sugar on the palate. Exotic fruits of figs and ripe peaches, also some lychee went through to a slightly candied fruit quality on the palate. There were faint hints of mineral notes, but being so young it really did lean more towards a fruit forward palate at this point.
3) Leflevre- Pomponette Coteaux d’ Aix en Provence Rose’ 2009
Provence is most well known for its Rose’ wines, and this one is a great example why. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Vermentino (anything else?!) were all blended in harmony to produce this wine, a great representation of the traditional onion skin color and perfumed, floral style. Light in intensity with the southern herbs of lavender and some shrub brush, floral with fruits of cherry skins, fresh peach and Fuji apples. A warm sandy minerality was complimented by bright acidity on a balanced finish.
4) Producer Unknown Saint Joseph (2008?)
The cool thing about this place is the laid back atmosphere. Wine is a focus, of course, but not perceived as a big luxury item. If I asked for something and they didn’t have it, like here, they brought something else. I was looking for a hearty Cotes du Rhone or Chateauneuf du Pape, and I got poured this. Saint Joseph is a pure Syrah from the North part of the Rhone Valley. Syrah in the North for Rhone, Grenache blends in the South. There is the quick and easy lesson for today.
The wine was dark and bold and full bodied, and Rhone wines in general I find go great with Lamb, period. Ripe black fruits with hints of black pepper and underbrush tones were present on this young straight forward representation. Not too complex, but good and balanced all in all. Not as big or tannic as many of the California Syrah wines, with more acidity present. It was an easy going base level Saint Joseph, kind of poor man’s Cote Rotie or Hermitage.
Dinner the first night was Rack of Lamb, Medium Temperature (even though I prefer it Medium Rare) in a mustard sauce with roast potatoes and a small zucchini quiche. The food was very good indeed. Day 1 was a success and definitely trumped the night before which I found to be unorganized and spotty. Definitely this is the place to go for a good glass of wine and a great scene in Marseille. Salute!
 |
| Happy Holidays to All from France |
No comments:
Post a Comment