Morisfarms

Cyrpess Lane



Morisfarms


Massa Marittima (GR)

Visited 1-12-2010

Every region has its pioneers, those that were ahead of the trends and brought their respective regions from obscurity into prominence. Napa has Robert Mondavi, Bordeaux can claim a long a rich history of families and chateaus, Piemonte has Gaja and Giacosa, Montalcino has Biondi-Santi, Bolgheri-in Northern Maremma- has Incisa della Rocchetta di San Guido Sassicaia, and in the Southern part of the Maremma you have Morisfarms. If you are not familiar with the estate, well welcome to the light. They are one of the older producers in the region of Maremma, and their wines across the board are in the top tier of quality production. The family name, Moris, is of Spanish decent. The family has been in the region for over 200 years and has, for generations, operated two estates, thus the name Morisfarms. The first estate is the home site in Massa Marittima, Tenuta Poggetti, which I visited. The other is their Poggio la Mozza site in the Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. The two estates combine to cover 70 hectares of vines, 37 on the Tenuta Poggeti and 33 on the Poggio la Mazzo estate.

As you drive up the road towards the estate house, along an extensive Cypress lane which measures 6km in all, I really felt like I was going to a historic site rather than just a winery. The estate measures over 400 Hectares in all and when you reach the top of the hill and look over the scenery, it truly is a site to take in. Among the vines are olives groves and a vast expanse of woodlands, and also a wild boar reserve so that guests can actually see these famous cinghiale of Tuscany, which make delicious eats. My guide was Giulio, one of the family members who is most active in the project his family began so many years ago. A youthful man with a lifetime of winemaking experience, a pleasant confidence and frankness are always put forth.

The Tenuta Poggeti estate is planted with Sangiovese and Vermentino, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Viognier. The vines span 37 Hectares, 3 of which are original planting going back to the early 1970’s while the rest has been added since 1990. The soil is traditional for the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. region, clay based and rich with the metal minerals from the hills.

The Poggio la Mozza estate is just east of Grosseto in the Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. and is comprised of 56 Hectares, 33 of which are vines. There you will find Sangiovese, as well as some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. There was a replanting project initiated in 1995 for this site, which finished in 2004. Here you find traditional Scansano soils, more sand based with some crumbling rock. This estate also contains some traces of limestone.

The wines of Morisfarms are known around the world, and I do recommend searching them out and experiencing the history of the Maremma. Their flagship wine is the ‘Avvoltore’ which is a wine produced from the Poggio all’ Avvoltore vineyard within the Tenuta Pogetti. First produced in 1988, it could definitely be considered one of the best ‘Supertuscan’ wines of the Southern Maremma. The 2007 vintage is Sangiovese (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Syrah (5%). The yields are kept extremely low and the wine is meticulously handled throughout the whole process. Fermented in cement tanks and then put into French barrique (225L) for about 12 months. 80% of these barrels are new oak. Racked one time in this process and then bottled, where it rests for 6 months before release onto the market. This is truly a wine that is best described by how it affects your emotions rather than the flavors, a magical wine that should be experienced to truly understand.

Morisfarms makes a Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. wine as well, comprised of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). This wine is also fermented in cement tanks, but with a slightly shorter vinification period than ‘Avvoltore.’ Aged in seasoned barrique for 12 months before bottling, where it is then allowed a few months to refine before release to the market. A wine that shows the true flavors of the Sangiovese grape and the Monteregio terroir. The wine is fruity and complex with spices and a rocky minerality, while staying perfumed and elegant throughout the finish.

From their Poggio la Mozza site Morisfarms makes two Morellino wines, a normale and a Riserva. Both wines are Sangiovese based (90%) with the final 10% being a mix of the Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah from the estate. The normale is youthful and bright, fruit forward and very clean. The Riserva is more elegant and complex. Receiving a longer vinification, which is done in cement tanks, and then goes into seasoned barriques for 12 months with one racking taking place. Once in the bottle it is refined for 6 months before release to the market. I tasted the 2007 vintage at the MaremmaWineShire fair in Milano, and the 2006 vintage while on my visit to the Tenuta Poggeti estate.

A rich garnet color with a Med+ concentration and still youthful appearance, the tears were moderate and showed slight staining. Dark cherries and ripe berry fruits are complimented by soft floral notes with a tinge of the woodsy aromas of the Sangiovese. The palate is clean and complex, with the same red fruits and earth tones of red clay and sandy component to it. Perfumed and robust on the long dry finish, great balance throughout.

Once again I’d like to thank Giulio for his time and knowledge in showing me his families’ estate and winery, it was very much enjoyed. And to all the readers out there, again please do go and find a bottle of Morisfarms and try it, not only will you be drinking great wine, but you will be drinking the history of the Southern Maremma.

http://www.morisfarms.it/

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!



The Beautiful Poggio la Mozza Estate



Avvoltore