Happy New Years!

It is the night of the 30th about 930PM my time, Bordeaux France.  I am about to embark on an overnight journey down to Madrid to ring in the New Year, with some great wine of course, although it won't all be Spanish....hehehehe.

I would like to thank all of my followers for making 2010 so successful and I hope that I have been able my readers out in some way at one point in time or another.  I can make this promise that 2011 will bring only more moves in the right direction, including the continued expansion of the educational resource area of this page as well as many great more additions. 

I have been fortunate to taste many outstanding bottles of wine over the past few months since beginning this page, and I look forward to continuing to share the experiences with you and ultimately make your shopping for outstanding wines in 2011 that much easier.

Be safe, have fun, and don't shoot out anyone's eye when you let that champagne cork go tomorrow, Salute!

2 thumbs up on my day in Beaune and to 2010!  Happy New Year!

Margaux's Carrelet with Carrots

 

Brasserie Leon de Lyon
 

Lyon, France
 

Visited 20-12-2010
 

Welcome to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France.  Paris has art and a famous tower, Lyon has their famous Bouchon’s and Brasserie on almost every corner.  Crepe-makers in the streets and colorful Macarons filling adjacent pastry shop windows.  I arrived on Monday the 20th, and was excited to finally be in the region of Bourgogne-Lyon lying in the heart of the Beaujolais commune- and even more excited to have my friend Margaux arriving to travel with.  A familiar face for the holidays and a translator to boot!  The city was beautiful all around, and my impression of the French people and cities only improved upon Marseille.  Warm charming personalities and smiling faces passed cleaner streets across 2 rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, through wonderful little daily markets.  A city all in all that I am positive everyone should visit.
 

The first night we wanted to celebrate a bit and go to a nice place, something about the Bistrot level (it goes café, bistrot, brasserie, and restaurant).  Margaux’s travel book recommended Leon de Lyon as a One star Michelin establishment that boasted a famous Lyonnais chef and a century old setting.  The place was very beautiful and the servers dressed in suits, a great facade put on.  I will say though that the place did begin to fall short off the bat.
As a Sommelier I get excited about places that have received Michelin Star(s), because of what that should imply service and wine wise.  The wine list was a bit meager in my opinion, and everything was current vintages, nothing presented had age on it.  I choose a good go-to wine, E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2006.  At 29 Euro I felt for that vintage it was fair and a good bottle to go with dinner and to begin to teach Margaux a bit about wines from Bourgogne/Rhone.  The bottle that came out was the 2007, which I asked to confirm the misprint on the menu, and no attempt to check or substitute was offered.  Furthermore it was the server assistant who presented and poured the initial taste and glass.  A big disappointment from my professional standpoint.
 

Dinner began; we both made selections off the 3 course 24 Euro menu, with a Terrine and a bowl of Leek and Potato puree soup.  Both were very well executed by the chef.  Service continued on in a good manner, but to this point we were pouring our own wine and water.
 

The main course was an easy go to for me, Beef done in a gravy sauce with Swiss Chard and Roasted Potatoes, and for Margaux a White fish (Carrelet aka Sole) with sweet carrots.  Again both prepared well and the execution of the food service was proper, although it was asked who was having what dish when delivered!
 

For dessert, a poached pear with a flaky pastry and raspberry sorbet as well as a pastry with an apple sauce.  The pear was definitely the winner in both of our books, but again it was asked who was having what when delivered.  
 

The wine was perfectly fine, but nothing special, as it was a base level Rhone wine that did display all of the proper red fruit qualities with the spice notes behind.  The glasses for wine service, which it appeared to be for all the tables were very inadequate in style, shape, and size.  I would expect them in a Bistrot for house wine, not a Michelin Starred Restaurant/Brasserie.  
 

Overall I found the meal to be of good classic flavors executed properly, of a 3 star level.  The service overall though was greatly suffering, and it was a bit perplexing to be honest how this establishment had achieved a Michelin rating when there are so many places that I have experienced that have outperformed them which do not.  I give the service 1 star.  The food was good, but overall, it was not good enough at the price levels to make me go back…a less than magical beginning to my Lyonnais dining experiences.  
 

As you will see, the food gets better and the prices lower, there is light on the horizon for Lyon…and you will see very soon.  Salute!    

Margaux's Doughnut pastry with apples

The night's winning dish, my poached pears!  See how small the wine glasses are btw

Brasserie Leon de Lyon

Margaux's Carrelet with Carrots

Brasserie Leon de Lyon

Lyon, France
 

Visited 20-12-2010
 

Welcome to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France.  Paris has art and a famous tower, Lyon has their famous Bouchon’s and Brasserie on almost every corner.  Crepe-makers in the streets and colorful Macarons filling adjacent pastry shop windows.  I arrived on Monday the 20th, and was excited to finally be in the region of Bourgogne-Lyon lying in the heart of the Beaujolais commune- and even more excited to have my friend Margaux arriving to travel with.  A familiar face for the holidays and a translator to boot!  The city was beautiful all around, and my impression of the French people and cities only improved upon Marseille.  Warm charming personalities and smiling faces passed cleaner streets across 2 rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, through wonderful little daily markets.  A city all in all that I am positive everyone should visit.
 

The first night we wanted to celebrate a bit and go to a nice place, something about the Bistrot level (it goes café, bistrot, brasserie, and restaurant).  Margaux’s travel book recommended Leon de Lyon as a One star Michelin establishment that boasted a famous Lyonnais chef and a century old setting.  The place was very beautiful and the servers dressed in suits, a great facade put on.  I will say though that the place did begin to fall short off the bat.
As a Sommelier I get excited about places that have received Michelin Star(s), because of what that should imply service and wine wise.  The wine list was a bit meager in my opinion, and everything was current vintages, nothing presented had age on it.  I choose a good go-to wine, E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2006.  At 29 Euro I felt for that vintage it was fair and a good bottle to go with dinner and to begin to teach Margaux a bit about wines from Bourgogne/Rhone.  The bottle that came out was the 2007, which I asked to confirm the misprint on the menu, and no attempt to check or substitute was offered. 

Furthermore it was the server assistant who presented and poured the initial taste and glass.  A big disappointment from my professional standpoint.
 

Dinner began; we both made selections off the 3 course 24 Euro menu, with a Terrine and a bowl of Leek and Potato puree soup.  Both were very well executed by the chef.  Service continued on in a good manner, but to this point we were pouring our own wine and water.
 

The main course was an easy go to for me, Beef done in a gravy sauce with Swiss Chard and Roasted Potatoes, and for Margaux a White fish (Carrelet aka Sole) with sweet carrots.  Again both prepared well and the execution of the food service was proper, although it was asked who was having what dish when delivered!
 

For dessert, a poached pear with a flaky pastry and raspberry sorbet as well as a pastry with an apple sauce.  The pear was definitely the winner in both of our books, but again it was asked who was having what when delivered.  
 

The wine was perfectly fine, but nothing special, as it was a base level Rhone wine that did display all of the proper red fruit qualities with the spice notes behind.  The glasses for wine service, which it appeared to be for all the tables were very inadequate in style, shape, and size.  I would expect them in a Bistrot for house wine, not a Michelin Starred Restaurant/Brasserie.  
 

Overall I found the meal to be of good classic flavors executed properly, of a 3 star level.  The service overall though was greatly suffering, and it was a bit perplexing to be honest how this establishment had achieved a Michelin rating when there are so many places that I have experienced that have outperformed them which do not.  I give the service 1 star.  The food was good, but overall, it was not good enough at the price levels to make me go back…a less than magical beginning to my Lyonnais dining experiences.  
 

As you will see, the food gets better and the prices lower, there is light on the horizon for Lyon…and you will see very soon.  Salute!    

Margaux's Doughnut Pastry with Apple

The night's winning dish, my poached pears!  See how small the wine glasses are!

La Part des Anges- Part Deux

 

Wine Bar La Part des Anges-Part Deux

Marseille, France

Visited 18-12-2010

So yes, Part Deux, the sequel and conclusion to my experiences of wine tasting in Marseille.  I would like to make a very important note before getting into the wines though, the French people that I have met up to this point, December 22nd, have been nothing but warm and friendly.  They have gotten a bad rap.  I think, like anywhere, the locals just want one to behave and be respectful.  As long as you don’t cause a wave in the pool, then the swimming is good for all.  Stereotypes are misconstrued on both ends and I have been pleasantly surprised thus far with my experience in France…especially with the language barrier present from my end.

And so, I returned for dinner on Saturday night and found the place busy yes, but not as roaring as the Friday night scene, but manageable.  I was pretty full still from the day before and wanted to go a bit of a different route, and delve into some cheese.  Both the same guys were working behind the bar, and both remembered me, a plus I guessed.  And so they were pleased and I was pleased, and I said let’s go with some cheese, a Chevre, or something close to it.  You order cheese there separately, by each cheese, so I was surprised and pleased when they gave me a second cheese, on the house, to try!  Goat’s milk, one dry and fresh with fennel seeds, like a Chevre in style, the other a creamy cheese with a tasty rind.

1) Producer Unknown Vouvray (2008?)

Again I like the laid back style, I ask and they pour, and I enjoy.  I asked for a Vouvray and I got one, but no time to see the label or the vintage…no big deal.  Vouvray is a place in the Loire Valley, in the Northwest, and is made from pure Chenin Blanc.   Not a common grape in California, but it’s unique and good.

Starbright and youthful, with a pale straw color slightly tinged by green hues, the wine had a medium concentration and a medium viscosity.  The nose was mild, and dominated by secondary flavors, much in the old world style.  It smelled waxy and strong with almond skin, and fruit behind of bruised yellow apples, a touch of candied lemon and some white table grapes.  The wine was dry with a high level of acid and a long finish-balanced and enjoyable throughout.  For one who is not familiar with Chenin Blanc, a Vouvray is about as classic as it gets.

2) Francois Villard Les Contours de Deponcins Viognier 2009

Viognier is a French varietal and is at its best from Condrieu in the Northern Rhone Valley.  This is a small place with expensive wines.  This bottling was from younger vines from good-but not great- sites around the Condrieu area.  This wine rocked.  Deep golden concentration and very youthful to sight, the wine had some heavy legs too.  Intense in aromas of grilled peaches and rounded with a bouquet of fresh colorful flowers.  The wine was strong and full bodied with a good rocky minerality on a dry, long and persistent finish.

3) Producer Unknown Cinsault (2008/9?)

By this point in the evening I was stuffing my face with cheese and decided I was going to be full by the end of it.  I told Oliver I wanted something young and fruity, and this is what he poured.  This is a blending grape from the Southern Rhone Valley that is also common in Provence, and it was the first time I had tried a pure form of it.  I would not call it fruity, but it was light and I now really understand how it can be beneficial as a blending varietal.  Very herbaceous on the nose, as well as loaded with dried potpourri flowers, and all the fruits detected were red berry fruits.  The palate was light in body and tannin, with only a medium level of acidity.  This is a grape that can do 2 things to a blend, increase aromatics on the nose, and soften more full bodied wines like Syrah and Mourvedre.  I also understand why it is so popular for Rose’ wines from the South of France for its aromatic qualities.  A good learning experience for me.

4) Chateau Roquefort ‘Les Mures’ Cotes du Provence 2005

A well known producer and a wine I have had tried before in California.  It is a blend of Grenach, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cinsault. Ruby red in color with a medium concentration, the wine was bright and beginning to show some signs of age.  The nose was clean with a medium intensity of dark red fruits and cool dark earth, chocolate like, with some cigar leaves.  There is more of the herbal Provencal herb quality on the palate, but not a whole lot going on as far as complexity.  The wine being a year or 2 maybe past its optimal drinking window.

All in all I definitely loved this bar.  The cheese filled me up, the bread was good, the wine flowed, oh yeah and the guys gave me a spirit at the end of the night before leaving.  I figured this American Sommelier had warmed them up enough to give a better view of Americans, although I fear it may be lost soon.  Again just be respectful and polite and roll with it.  So what was the spirit, well a Japanese Whisky of course, haha.  I said I liked Scotch and that’s what they poured, and it wasn’t bad either.  2 firsts in the same night, not bad I’d say.  Goodbye to Marseille and I am glad I found La Part des Anges, Salute!

My travel companion and good friend Margaux

La Part des Anges

Wine Bar La Part des Anges


Marseille, France

Visited 17-12-2010

‘The place of angels’ as it is translated, even though the crowd seemed to have a few devils intermixed-in a good way. Recommended by a few people as the best wine bar in Marseille, and I can understand why. Their selections by the glass are vast and wide ranging in France, with a focus on the local wines of the Provence region. I went in for a small tasting after lunch and it was quiet, and the young hip gentleman working was welcoming and spoke great English. I went to the place 3 times in all, and am going to split the visits into 2 articles (4 wines per article) so as to keep it manageable. I will say right off this place was great overall, fun ambience and a great setting, much better part of town than L’Enoteka too I might add. A fun casual atmosphere that appealed to the serious wine buff and the leisure wine taster all the same.

1) F. Chidaine Tourane 2009

Last time I checked, this same wine was being offered by the glass at 58 Degrees & Holding in Midtown Sacramento. A pure varietal Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, it is a perfect way to get a meal started. Look for it to accompany light fair appetizers or a dry goat cheese from the same area, think Chevre here. Very light in color and concentration, with a moderate intensity of aromas. The flavors were slightly vegetal, along with some gooseberry accents. The aromas were pungent and very mineral laden- small cool rocks like dried out river rocks. Light and lively with crisp acidity on the finish.

2) Domaine Dirler (Deer-lar) Riesling Alsace 2009

Like I said, they had wines from all over France to try, not just Provence, and I have to say Riesling is probably my favorite white varietal out there, so I, of course, had to go there. It didn’t hurt that Alsace produces some of the richest and exotic Riesling wines in the world. Light golden in color and quite youthful; it was dry with a touch of residual sugar on the palate. Exotic fruits of figs and ripe peaches, also some lychee went through to a slightly candied fruit quality on the palate. There were faint hints of mineral notes, but being so young it really did lean more towards a fruit forward palate at this point.

3) Leflevre- Pomponette Coteaux d’ Aix en Provence Rose’ 2009

Provence is most well known for its Rose’ wines, and this one is a great example why. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Vermentino (anything else?!) were all blended in harmony to produce this wine, a great representation of the traditional onion skin color and perfumed, floral style. Light in intensity with the southern herbs of lavender and some shrub brush, floral with fruits of cherry skins, fresh peach and Fuji apples. A warm sandy minerality was complimented by bright acidity on a balanced finish.

4) Producer Unknown Saint Joseph (2008?)

The cool thing about this place is the laid back atmosphere. Wine is a focus, of course, but not perceived as a big luxury item. If I asked for something and they didn’t have it, like here, they brought something else. I was looking for a hearty Cotes du Rhone or Chateauneuf du Pape, and I got poured this. Saint Joseph is a pure Syrah from the North part of the Rhone Valley. Syrah in the North for Rhone, Grenache blends in the South. There is the quick and easy lesson for today.

The wine was dark and bold and full bodied, and Rhone wines in general I find go great with Lamb, period. Ripe black fruits with hints of black pepper and underbrush tones were present on this young straight forward representation. Not too complex, but good and balanced all in all. Not as big or tannic as many of the California Syrah wines, with more acidity present. It was an easy going base level Saint Joseph, kind of poor man’s Cote Rotie or Hermitage.

Dinner the first night was Rack of Lamb, Medium Temperature (even though I prefer it Medium Rare) in a mustard sauce with roast potatoes and a small zucchini quiche. The food was very good indeed. Day 1 was a success and definitely trumped the night before which I found to be unorganized and spotty. Definitely this is the place to go for a good glass of wine and a great scene in Marseille. Salute!

Happy Holidays to All from France

L'Enoteka Marseille

Wine Bar L’Enoteka


Marseille, France

Visited 16-12-2010

Hello all and welcome to France! Yes that’s right, I have hopped the border and moved out of the land of pasta and tomatoes into the land of cheese, cheese, and well more cheese….plus lots of really good wines. I do of course love my Italian wines, and always will, but my absolute favorite varietal is Pinot Noir, and the Mecca for Pinot Noir is Beaune-Bourgogne (Burgundy). Don’t worry we will get there.

As I sit here it is the 22nd of December and I am on the floor of a train headed from Lyon to Bordeaux to spend the next week in the red wine capital of the world, Bordeaux being the most famous wine region known the planet over-well maybe second to Champagne. The train is small and overfilled, packed in like sardines, but I have plenty of time to reflect on my past few days and enological/culinary adventures.

We begin with the first place I visited to enjoy some Southern French wines the night I arrived in France, wine bar L’Enoteka, which was remarked for being hip well placed and known for having Italian wines as well. This made some sense to me being so close to Italy, but why not represent your own backyard and the great wines of Provence? Well their Italian selections were comprised of a couple bottles tucked away deep down in a dusty corner….great selection. They were all about French wines, and that is totally understandable.

When I found the place I thought they were closed and not in the best part of the city, Marseille overall reminds me of the cleanliness of San Francisco the morning after New Year’s, but worse. The lights in the front were mostly off or very dim, and I only saw one woman in the place behind the counter. She came to the door and opened it and said they were open, and spoke in English, but seemed to be surprised by my presence there. I asked to do a tasting which was agreed upon if I was going to eat, so I said I would have something.

There was no menu for wine and the bottles seemed to be disorganized on the counter, none with cork in, and she began to pour me room temperature whites. In all I tasted 4 wines-3 whites and 1 red- and 2 of the whites were served such, one came out of the wine fridge. I feel like the bottles were almost left over and they were just pouring them off.

1) Causse Marines ‘Zacmau’ Gaillac 2009
A southwestern French wine which was served room temperature. It was not a proper way to serve and I felt it may have suffered also from exposure to oxygen. I was also disappointed to find out it was unknown the varietal that goes into a Gaillac.

2) Jean Paul Brun Jeres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc 2009 (Chardonnay)
Served proper temperature, Chardonnay is becoming more common as the white wine of Beaujolais, which does fall into the South of Bourgogne (Burgundy). Very fruity but subtle, with a warm plump palate. Green apple and candied lemon with no signs of oak influence and more tart crisp acidity. Rocky cement cool minerality was subtle as well.

3) Producer Unknown…Macon Les Clos Rucches 2008
Another Chardonnay, another white served at room temperature. I did not get a chance to really see the bottle and missed the producer. Macon is North of Beaujolais, but still very far South in Burgundy and should deliver riper plumper styles with less mineral and warmer grassy/straw flavors.

4) Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Les Terrasses 2009
Pure Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley in the Northwest of France. A wine from a region that in my opinion usually delivers good flavors and good qualities. Some may find the Cabernet Franc flavors less than enjoyable, especially compared to the darker fruitier Cabernet Sauvignon.

Bright ruby red color that softens towards the rim with a med+ concentration. The wine is still youthful on edges though with medium tears and some staining. Spicy red berries and graphite minerality have a firm intensity on the nose, backed by tones of green bell peppers and the traditional vegetal tinge. A dry wine with a medium body and a medium finish, which was balanced.

I ate a Rillettes of Oie (Goose) with my wines. It was sold by the jar, which was way too much for 1 person and so I had to abandon the effort about half way through and felt glutton-ish even there.

Overall, not very impressed (1.5 Stars) and would not return. There are much better options in Marseille….like the next wine bar I will right about, ah anticipation. Patience is a virtue, Salute!

Tenuta La Badiola

Tenuta La Badiola

Castiglione della Pescaia (GR)

Visited 9-12-2010

History is a very interesting subject. Without history, one cannot know where they come from or why things today are the way they are. Without history many things in our lives would be void of substance-this can transcend cultures, classes, and all aspects of life. Without history, one would not understand Tenuta La Badiola. Castiglione della Pescaia is a coastal town, small and charming. From the medieval castle atop the town hill one can see for miles and miles on a clear day. The first thing one does notice is the Casa Rossa, the red house, that sits at the edge of the marshlands of the region. In 1826, Grand Duke Leopold II made it his mission to begin to drain much of these lands so as to rid the region of the malaria epidemic. He first noted the problem from his summer lodging residence in a special little pocket between two hills where a spring flowed with clean fresh water; this site is Tenuta La Badiola. In these months, Leopold would hunt the famous cinghiale of the region and enjoy the cool coastal climate. Today the same pleasures can still be done. Many years later, to bring us to the present day, the property is much preserved in the same fashion as Leopold’s time, but of course improvements have occurred as well.

The property was purchased by the Moretti Family in the year 2000 and they began a large operation to restore and develop the estate. This is the same Moretti Family as that of Petra in Suvereto as well as Bellavista in Franciacorta. The estate spans some 500 Hectares, of which there are currently about 30 Hectares (75 acres) of vines planted. There are also old growth olive groves and woodlands on the property. In addition, the main attraction to the property is their luxurious resort, L’Andana. Named after the row of cypress and pine trees lining the driveway to the resort, this Alain Ducasse project includes a Michelin Star restaurant, Trattoria Toscana. It opened in 2004 and I can say firsthand that the amenities are extravagant and royal.

The vineyard project began in 2001 and was finished in 2004. They span both sides of the main resort building, taking advantage of the differences in the soil due to the varying mineral deposits from the flow of the Acquagiusta, the proper water from the natural spring. This is most important to the property, and all of their wines, except Acquadoro, bear this word on their label. Without this specialty of their property there would not exist a special site for vineyards. The vineyards are planted to Vermentino, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Alicante. The first vintage was 2005.

My tour was most special because it was with the Enologist of the estate, Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro. A young passionate individual who has a refreshing and very appropriate belief when it comes to his work. I first met him in Milano at the MaremmaWineShire expo, and knew then that it was imperative to follow up and visit with him again at the estate. I learned many things while on the tour, both technical as well as spiritual. We talked of the wines and the vineyards, and of the cellar and certain techniques being utilized, but what I most understood and took away from the visit was the belief that the wines are most well understood as a vessel of expression of the site where they are harvested, and how the enologist is the one who is responsible for delivering this expression as purely as possible. We spoke frankly about truths in winemaking, for instance that every vintage is different and that some are more difficult than others, something that some would be a bit shy in admitting. As of the products produced and released so far, all of the wines are vinified and aged without any oak influence. Experimentation began with the 2009 vintage of the Rosso, and we talked about the effects that oak has on wines. Alessandro gave a brilliant example of how oak is like makeup with a woman. A small amount can enhance beauty, but too much overwhelm and distort the true natural form. I hope that with the 2011 vintage he gets his large oak barrel to experiment with! One cannot truly understand the style of a winery/property without understanding the Enologist who is crafting the wine. And so let’s understand the wines a bit…

1) ‘Acquagiusta’ Vermentino 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

A fresh, pure, and focused example of the grape. As I have stated before, this is a wine to look for as it will be a popular wine in the very near future. Here is a bottling that definitely echoes my statement and would impress any wine drinker, especially when paired with foods from light antipasti through to fresh pasta and seafood. The color is a pale straw color with a light intensity and a soft, bright youthfulness to the eye. The aromas are crisp, with a strong essence of the coastal influence with a refreshing sandy and salty notes complimented by floral tinges behind. There is tart key lime citrus notes and white stone fruits on the palate with the lingering effect of the herbal shrubs of the area on the long dry finish.

2) ‘Acquagiusta’ Rosato 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (100% Alicante)

Alicante is a synonym for Grenache, and is grape that is on the rise in the Southern Maremma. Very easy to spot in the vineyard because the leaves turn bright red when mature. A lightly colored Rosato taking after the style of the Provence region in Southern France, a hot spot for Rose’ wines known the world over. The color is similar to the tinge of a ripe onion skin, derived from only 5 total hours of contact with the skins. The wine is described as ‘assertive but mellow,’ and I find that to be very fitting. It is elegant but powerful at the same time, comparable to the grace of an Olympic level female ice-skater. Plush red cherries and yellow peach skins are supported by a floral background and structured beautifully with bright crisp acidity.

3) ‘Acquadoro’ Viognier 2008 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

This is the only wine in the current production that does not bear the ‘Acquagiusta’ label but rather the ‘Acquadoro,’ (Golden Water) title. This wine is seen a bit differently than the others and is considered the flagship wine of the estate. This wine is highly refined and complex, showing the quality of the site as well as the skill of the Enologist in his craft. The wine has an intense golden color deep in concentration and heavy tears showing its high viscosity. The nose is very high in intensity and aromas, ripe with apricots and candied tropical fruits with a rich robust complexity and spice note to them. The palate was full bodied and flavorful, where the fruits were confirmed and the subtle florality awoke as well as the essence of the soil site rich in sand deposits. Because of its intensity, Viognier can be a difficult wine to pair with foods, but upon a round table discussion, we all agreed that the Tuscan antipasti would in general work well, and also the Sicilian kitchen offers many options.

4) ‘Acquagiusta’ Rosso 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

92 Points Wine Spectator

The sole red produced on the property is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Merlot (35%), and Syrah (30%). The 2007 vintage was vinified and aged purely in stainless steel tanks, and thus does not have any of the ‘makeup’ influence of the oak barrel. The focus is to preserve the richness of the fruits and deliver a true example of the site with which the grapes are harvested. The wine is an intense highly concentration color, almost purple to the eye with the edges softening a bit as it is just beginning to show a bit of age on the rim. The tears are firm, but not very heavy and show the appropriate moderate level of staining from the grapes and extractions. I would say the wine is full of fruit flavors, but not fruity per say, because it has complexity to make it multi-dimensional. Small dried black berry fruits and raisin notes are set against black olive and balsamic notes on the nose. The palate defines the fruits as cassis and black currants, with the extension of the balsamic notes converging into dark earth notes tinged with the herbal shrubs of the region. There is purity in the blend here, a long dry finish that balances the tannins and acids into harmony, each component working together towards a robust velvety structure. I could see this wine tasting great for at least 5-8 years.

Once again I would like to thank Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro for his time and knowledge. For so many, it is a rare privilege no often available to be able to be able to experience a winery and its products with the person who is the master craftsman. Again, I learned o much not only about the technical details but also about philosophies which I will carry on with me and pass on in the future. So remember everyone that life is short and one should always eat well, drink good wine, and always enjoy and not take for granted the company you are in while doing such things. Oh yeah, and to not be heavy handed with Life’s different ‘make-ups.’ Happy Holidays friends.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

http://www.tenutalabadiola.it/

info@tenutalabadiola.it

http://www.andana.it/

Ristorante Tudini Gabriele & Tomoko Roma

Hey all, welcome back.  As I said I have just arrived in France, Marseille to be precise, and i want to get you all caught up on my last couple enrties for italy for the next few weeks.  Today's blog is about the place I ate dinner at the night i was staying in Roma waiting to fly out the following morning.  As you have probably noticed most of my entries to date have been positive and singing the praises of people, places, and things (things being wine of course).  Well that is because I want to share positive experiences with my audience so as to inform you all about what is out there and to help direct you to the best of the best whenever possible.  Well it is also my responsibility to direct you away from things that i do not deem as being on par.  And today that is what we will do, because I cannot say that this is a ristorante i would go back to.

The place had an interesting feel from the outside, and an odd feel from the inside.  The place I figured out halfway through the experience is owned by an Asian husband and wife, which explains why it was filled with Asian diners.  Now don't begin thinking I dislike Asian people, I am not biased in any way racially, but I do prefer my italian ristorante to be owned by italians.  Wouldn't it be a little odd if I owned and operated an authentic Chinese food place?  Let us proceed, my radar should have been up when i didnt hear any italian being spoken in the place, at least not close to me.  But it was very close to the Termini train station and so that is more common of a phenomenon.

The food I ordered was the specialty pizza recommended, Pizza Gabriele, named after the owner I assume.  On the menu it said it had salumi, rucola aka rocket salad(arugola), pomodoro (tomato), and salsiccia (sausage). The pizza came out extremely fast, literally less than 4 minutes after ordering, and the toppings were split in half.  The rucola and pomodoro together and the meats together.  It was of a decent taste, but at 12 Euro i was expecting more.  For dessert i had profiteroles (cream puffs) covered in white chocolate.  These I could tell had been taken out of a refrigorator because the whipped cream was hard like such.  A poor effort.

The wine I selected was a 1/2 bottle of Scopetani Chianti 2008.  This is a winery from Rufina Northeast of Florence, and the wine menu stated it was a Chianti Rufina, but the label said plainly Chianti...and Chianti D.O.C.G. covers 7 sub-regions and can come from any of them.  It cost me 8.50 Euro for the bottle.

A bit of advice for all out there.  Always look to the half bottle menu over a by the glass program if it is a place you are unfamiliar with their wine policy.  There is nothing worse than getting a glass poured from a bottle opened too long and turned to vinegar and having to send it back, especially when travelling!

back to the wine, it was decent but nothing memorably.  The most i can say is that it was a spot on base level Chianti that could not mimic anything else.  Light garnet in color with tart red cherry and the tarry-woodsy earth aromas behind it.  A straight forward wine that could not be classified as complex, it was dry and light in body and tannins with the high level of acidity of the Sangiovese grape.  The website states there is some white Trebbiano blended into the wine which would only increase its acid level.


And so I leave you with the few tips i have picked up along the way as I continue to travel through Europe:
1: Ask a local wine shop, they can direct you t o the best local bar to taste regional products
2: If the menu has pictures, RUN AWAY!
3: Listen to the audience, if its all locals then you are probably safe.
4: Listen to your nose, it rarely fails me!

Happy Holidays from your friendly neighborhood travelling Sommelier, Salute! 

Im in France!

Just arrived in France to begin my holiday vacation.  Also reached 2000 views for the year.  Thanks to everyone for all their support and get ready to start reading about some great French experiences in the next couple days!

Salute!

Petra Winery

Petra


Suvereto (Livorno)

Visited 2-12-2010

Petra, Latin for rock, stands strong and bold like a chiseled piece of marble on the hillside where it resides in the Southern part of the Livorno Province. The estate lies within the Val di Cornia D.O.C. but the property could be considered a special microclimate all its own. Spanning across 300 Hectares, sprawled to the sea with olive groves and woodlands teaming with cinghiale, the 94 Hectares of vines are divided into parcels where the terroir is most suited for each varietal. The winery itself is state of the art, and also a state of art. Designed by famed architect Mario Botta, check out the San Francisco Modern Museum of Art, he incorporates a symbolism here that is tied perfectly with its functionality. Personally speaking, I cannot recall a more impressive facility. Everything is designed to benefit the wine first and foremost, but also with a pleasing visual ascetic.

Founded by Vittorio and his daughter Francesca Moretti, who also own and operate Bellavista in Franciacorta-Lombardy as well as Tenuta la Badiola-Castiglione della Pescaia, this was a site hand selected for its optimal terroir to begin their red wine project. The theme here is more in the ’Supertuscan’ style, emphasizing their unique placement on hillside lands near the sea. There is Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which is planted closer to the sea on lower altitudes, as well as Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc higher up on the property. There is also a very small patch of old vine white varietals which go into their dessert wine, L’Angelo di San Lorenzo. All of the vineyards share a common clay dominant soil that is naturally very rocky and high in minerals. Walking through the vineyards this was very evident. Their 1st vintage was in 1997 from vines that were pre-existing, since then they have expanded to the current 94 Hectares.

Production and aging of these wines is a very technical process, overseen by consulting French enologist Pascal Chatonnet, who also consults for Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and Vega Sicilia in Ribero del Duoro-Spain. Stainless steel is used for the base level wines fermentation, while 100 hectoliter French oak barrels are used for the top tier wines. There are two chai, or barrel rooms, one for the 1st year wines and one for the 2nd year wines-mimicking the Bordeaux style. Let us begin to explore the line of wines produced by Petra Winery…

1) ‘Ebo’ 2007 Val di Cornia Suvereto D.O.C.

91 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Named after the ancient Etruscan settlement of the region, Ebo is a blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For a wine that they deem entry level, around 13 Euro retail, I found it very pleasant and drinkable. Deep garnet color with a firm but clear concentration with tears that were strong and had some staining. Dark dry red fruits complimented by a dark earth quality. The palate is warm and robust, but nicely balanced and contains secondary flavors of the coastal vegetation/shrubs with tinges of coffee on the finish. Aged in seasoned Slovenian and French barrels of different sizes for 12 months, with a further 10 months in the bottle for refinements.

2) ‘Alto’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Sangiovese)

A new project for them, the 2006 being the first vintage they decided to do a pure Sangiovese wine. Definitely an experiment, as when discussing the winery as a whole I really understood that the whole project is still an experiment. I like this perspective, always learning-always progressing. This wine was ruby red in color with a firm but clear concentration with the rim beginning to fade out in color a tinge. The nose was very ripe, dark cherries and blueberries with the traditional smoky woodsy qualities of the Sangiovese varietal. The palate was plump and rich, with almost a tree sap quality to the herbal tinge, but with the natural acidity preserved enough to balance out the finish.

3) ‘Potenti’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Potenti is the vineyard name where these grapes are being sourced, and it translates to ‘powerful.’ Well named indeed. A purple garnet color with a high concentration and very youthful appearance, the tears were firm and had noticeable staining. There was a power to this wine which was masked by its youth. Definitely needs some time in the bottle to soften, but the future looks very bright. Sweet black fruits are kissed by the French oak influence on the nose. I noted black currants and black liquorice notes on the palate, with the finish hinting towards the emergence of the floral/earthy complexities. The wine was dry and full bodied with strong tannins and balanced acidity. I’d love to revisit this one in a couple of years…I doubt many will be able to wait that long!

4) ‘Quercegobbe’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Merlot)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate (2006 94 Points WA)

The Quercegobbe vineyard is a small strip intermixed next to some Cabernet Sauvignon and backing right up to the woodlands on the property. It is a very special vineyard which makes a very special wine. Highly rated in 2006, and living up to its acclaim with the 2007 vintage as well. It is my belief that the 2007 is on the same path and will develop beautifully for many years to come. A dark ruby-heavy garnet color with a firm but clear concentration. The wine is intense on the nose, plump ripe plums and dark cherries bursting in the glass all set against a red flower and warm dark rocky earth component. The palate is long and strong, silky tannins caress the dry finish. There are notes of coffee and subtle peppercorn spices with notes of balsamic vinegar on the back. The wine is aged in 600 L French barrique for about 15 months, 50% new and 50% seasoned, followed by 10 months in the bottle before release.

5) ‘Petra’ 2006 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot)

2007 Vintage 94 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

The flagship wine of the estate, the 2006 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot. Can anyone say ‘Supertuscan?’ While that is the general style of the house, this one really does put itself within the company of many of the big name wines of the Bolgheri D.O.C. ‘Supertuscans.’ A dark garnet color with a firm but clear concentration and tears that are also firm and showing some staining. The nose is pleasantly perfumed and intense with fruits of red currants and ripe berries in syrup and vanillin from the oak, but subtle and well integrated. The wine is intense in the mouth as well with the fruits reconfirmed and many of the secondary flavors from the nose transcending through also. Coffee and eucalyptus intermix with the dark rocky mineral rich earth notes. The wine is dry with a firm body and velvety tannins all in balance on a long dry finish. Aged for 18 months in French barrique, 80% new, followed by 18 months in the bottle for refinement.

I would like to thank Ettore Maggi for his wonderful wealth of knowledge and leading me on one of the absolute best winery tours of my life. I can only say that any trip to Tuscany should include an appointment to visit and tour this winery, it is a special piece of the region that I am sure will only continue to grow and achieve more accolades in the very near future. Find a bottle of their wine in America and get just a glimpse of what potential there is here.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

http://www.petrawine.it/

Morisfarms

Cyrpess Lane



Morisfarms


Massa Marittima (GR)

Visited 1-12-2010

Every region has its pioneers, those that were ahead of the trends and brought their respective regions from obscurity into prominence. Napa has Robert Mondavi, Bordeaux can claim a long a rich history of families and chateaus, Piemonte has Gaja and Giacosa, Montalcino has Biondi-Santi, Bolgheri-in Northern Maremma- has Incisa della Rocchetta di San Guido Sassicaia, and in the Southern part of the Maremma you have Morisfarms. If you are not familiar with the estate, well welcome to the light. They are one of the older producers in the region of Maremma, and their wines across the board are in the top tier of quality production. The family name, Moris, is of Spanish decent. The family has been in the region for over 200 years and has, for generations, operated two estates, thus the name Morisfarms. The first estate is the home site in Massa Marittima, Tenuta Poggetti, which I visited. The other is their Poggio la Mozza site in the Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. The two estates combine to cover 70 hectares of vines, 37 on the Tenuta Poggeti and 33 on the Poggio la Mazzo estate.

As you drive up the road towards the estate house, along an extensive Cypress lane which measures 6km in all, I really felt like I was going to a historic site rather than just a winery. The estate measures over 400 Hectares in all and when you reach the top of the hill and look over the scenery, it truly is a site to take in. Among the vines are olives groves and a vast expanse of woodlands, and also a wild boar reserve so that guests can actually see these famous cinghiale of Tuscany, which make delicious eats. My guide was Giulio, one of the family members who is most active in the project his family began so many years ago. A youthful man with a lifetime of winemaking experience, a pleasant confidence and frankness are always put forth.

The Tenuta Poggeti estate is planted with Sangiovese and Vermentino, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Viognier. The vines span 37 Hectares, 3 of which are original planting going back to the early 1970’s while the rest has been added since 1990. The soil is traditional for the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. region, clay based and rich with the metal minerals from the hills.

The Poggio la Mozza estate is just east of Grosseto in the Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. and is comprised of 56 Hectares, 33 of which are vines. There you will find Sangiovese, as well as some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. There was a replanting project initiated in 1995 for this site, which finished in 2004. Here you find traditional Scansano soils, more sand based with some crumbling rock. This estate also contains some traces of limestone.

The wines of Morisfarms are known around the world, and I do recommend searching them out and experiencing the history of the Maremma. Their flagship wine is the ‘Avvoltore’ which is a wine produced from the Poggio all’ Avvoltore vineyard within the Tenuta Pogetti. First produced in 1988, it could definitely be considered one of the best ‘Supertuscan’ wines of the Southern Maremma. The 2007 vintage is Sangiovese (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Syrah (5%). The yields are kept extremely low and the wine is meticulously handled throughout the whole process. Fermented in cement tanks and then put into French barrique (225L) for about 12 months. 80% of these barrels are new oak. Racked one time in this process and then bottled, where it rests for 6 months before release onto the market. This is truly a wine that is best described by how it affects your emotions rather than the flavors, a magical wine that should be experienced to truly understand.

Morisfarms makes a Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. wine as well, comprised of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). This wine is also fermented in cement tanks, but with a slightly shorter vinification period than ‘Avvoltore.’ Aged in seasoned barrique for 12 months before bottling, where it is then allowed a few months to refine before release to the market. A wine that shows the true flavors of the Sangiovese grape and the Monteregio terroir. The wine is fruity and complex with spices and a rocky minerality, while staying perfumed and elegant throughout the finish.

From their Poggio la Mozza site Morisfarms makes two Morellino wines, a normale and a Riserva. Both wines are Sangiovese based (90%) with the final 10% being a mix of the Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah from the estate. The normale is youthful and bright, fruit forward and very clean. The Riserva is more elegant and complex. Receiving a longer vinification, which is done in cement tanks, and then goes into seasoned barriques for 12 months with one racking taking place. Once in the bottle it is refined for 6 months before release to the market. I tasted the 2007 vintage at the MaremmaWineShire fair in Milano, and the 2006 vintage while on my visit to the Tenuta Poggeti estate.

A rich garnet color with a Med+ concentration and still youthful appearance, the tears were moderate and showed slight staining. Dark cherries and ripe berry fruits are complimented by soft floral notes with a tinge of the woodsy aromas of the Sangiovese. The palate is clean and complex, with the same red fruits and earth tones of red clay and sandy component to it. Perfumed and robust on the long dry finish, great balance throughout.

Once again I’d like to thank Giulio for his time and knowledge in showing me his families’ estate and winery, it was very much enjoyed. And to all the readers out there, again please do go and find a bottle of Morisfarms and try it, not only will you be drinking great wine, but you will be drinking the history of the Southern Maremma.

http://www.morisfarms.it/

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!



The Beautiful Poggio la Mozza Estate



Avvoltore

Azienda Agricola Serraiola

Serraiola Winery


Monterotondo Marittimo (GR)

Visited 30-11-2010

Out in the Maremman countryside, a frontier of sorts, where you can still find the traditional ‘butteri’ cowboys of the region. A Wild West type place where jobs are hard and life is satisfying; this is where you will find the Serraiola Winery. A simple estate with a feel of pure functionality. The microclimate is distinct in that they are right along the Corneo River and thus have a unique mix of the metal rich soils combined with softer elements deposited from the river over the many years. The owner and winemaker, Fiorella Lenzi, has a warm personality that shows a quiet confidence in her project. The estate has been in the family for many years and they have been producing wines for longer than most in the area. Of course Sangiovese and Vermentino are produced, but also an interesting mix of international grapes.


1) Vermentino 2009 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.
A youthful wine with a light straw yellow color. The nose is mellow and focused on the grassy notes with hints to the sandy influence in the soil. Green apple, winter melon fruit on the finish. A straight forward versatile white wine.

2) ‘Violina’ 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (Chard-Sauv. Blanc-Traminer)
Again a youthful looking white, starbright, with a light straw yellow color with green hues towards the edges. The nose is a bit more intense with dry grass, green herbs and a touch of natural smoky elements. A fruity palate of ripe peach and sweet meyer lemon supported by firm acidity on a moderately long rounded finish. Also a sandy note to the minerality enhanced by a stronger rocky element.

3) ‘Serrabacio’ 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (Marsanne-Roussanne)
Surprised, well so was I to see these grapes in this region. Both grapes are most common in the Rhone Valley in France, Marsanne from the North only and Roussanne from both the North and South. Almost all the white wines from the Northern Rhone, except Condrieu, are going to be comprised of this blend. Also becoming more common in warm climates in California and Australia, to a lesser extent. Light golden color with a medium concentration and a high viscosity (14% abv). Yellow apples figs and quince fruits with some almond skin and marzipan. A ripe warm palate with moderate acidity to balance the alcohol on the finish. This wine does see barrique influence with battonage.

4) ‘Cervone’ 2009 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. (Sangiovese)\
Light bright and youthful with a pale garnet color and light concentration. The berry fruits are ripe and a touch dark, with tinges of herbs and a soft earthiness. A light bodied red that is soft and easy to drink.

5) ‘Lentisco’ 2008 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. (Sangiovese)
Daybright garnet color with a medium concentration and a soft rim variation forming. The tears have a medium viscosity and show no staining. An earthy nose here, dark cool earth with a mossy tinge and red berries fruits lightly smoked. There are red cherries and strawberries on the palate that have a warm ripe quality, like cooked fruit (jammy), on a dry palate with a medium finish and tinges of green herbs on the edges. The tannins and acids are soft and in balance here. One year in barrique, and in bottle since 2-2010.

6) Shiraz 2008 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.
Pure Syrah/Shiraz with a ruby red color wit h Med+ concentration and tears that show staining on Med+ viscosity. Baked cherries and dried red fruits with hints of black violets and compacted dark earth. A warm nose and a warm dry finish with firm tannins. It went well with a little fatty meat. One year in barrique.

7) ‘Campo Montecristo’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2008 & 2007 (Merlot)
A bright wine with a deep garnet color strong in concentration. A highly aromatic nose which is strongly influenced by the barrique aging. Plums and blueberries with vanillin. Currants and dark dry earth wake up on the palate which is long and warm. As the wine warmed in my glass more of the secondary flavors emerged. The 2008 needs time to harmonize.

The 2007 was still youthful but the extra year had given it more integrated aromas and had softened the influence of the oak. More floral and earth notes, as well as a peppery spice and the tobacco leaf and subtle cedar notes from the softened oak on the back end.

I found the wines here to be straightforward and enjoyable. They were all true to their terroir, and the house style overall was one that emphasized the earthy flavors inherent in their site. Thank you again to Fiorella for sharing with me her cellar and her wines.

http://www.serraiola.it/

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company,
http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

Sangiovese in full ripeness

Il Bacchino Wine Bar

Il Bacchino Wine Bar


Massa Marittima (GR) Maremma

Visited 17-11-2010

The town of Massa Marittima is a scene taken out of history. The view up to the wall city I imagine would have looked quite similar centuries ago, and the views from within looking out spans olive orchards, seas of grape vines and lush green farmland all the way down to the sandy coast. Walking the sleepy streets with the lunchtime hour fast approaching one really gets the idea that this is what old world Tuscany is all about. Narrow streets with high walled buildings weave and wind through the walled center, all leading to the Duomo and main piazza. The store fronts are simple and inviting, and the people have a feel about them that is pure and untarnished. Other than the influx of tourism in the summertime months, Massa Marittima appears to my spectacled eyes to have avoided the spoilings of present day excess.

Right off of the main via from the Duomo, Il Bacchino is hard to miss, just look for the wine barrel sitting out front of the door. Once inside a great wall of wine bottles flanks the left while a wealth of delicious meats and cheeses call to you from the display case on the right. One thing I noticed right away was the diversity of the wines for retail once inside, of course a wide array of Maremman, Tuscan, and Italian; but also a selection of French wines as well as a smattering of some other classics including one of my favorite cult wines Chateau Musar from the Lebanon. The owner, Magdy, and his wife Monica are very friendly and gracious in the traditional Italian style. They also speak English quite fluently which is of course a great help to me. We arranged a tasting of different wines from Maremma so as to get the opportunity to smell and taste the differences side-by-side.

A great treat to accompany the wine tasting was a tasting of an olive oil from the 2010 vintage. Capezzana Olio di Olivo Nuova 2010 was like nothing I have ever encountered before in the states. It was the greenest oil I have ever seen, truly eluding to its freshness, and had a wonderful aroma and a taste that was both creamy and spicy on the finish.

1) Fattoria Magliano ‘Heba’ Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. 2008

Starbright dark ruby color with a clear medium concentration and soft tears tinged with soft staining. Fruit forward with red berries like raspberries and cherries as well as some red rose petals and soft red earth notes. Medium bodied with light tannins and moderate acidity on a moderately long finish. A tinge of anise spice crept in on the back of the nose and the finish here as well. Sangiovese is the majority grape, as are all Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. wines.

http://www.fattoriadimagliano.it/index2.html

2) Piandibugnano ‘Cucaia’ Montecucco D.O.C. 2008

Starbright dark ruby color with a clear medium concentration with a youthful rim and a touch lighter staining than the ‘Heba’ Morellino. Dark rip strawberry fruits freshly made into a jam are complimented here by a dark floral note and a touch of peppercorns. There is also a strong essence of earth on the nose in the form of the dry crumbly rocky soil common in the Montecucco area. There are also some dark plums that wake up on the palate which is dry, with more tannin structure and a fuller mouth feel than the Morellino. The finish is longer also due to the balance and the preserved moderate level of acidity here. Sangiovese is the majority grape reinforced with Merlot.

http://www.piandibugnano.com/Inglese/index.htm

3) Le Macchiole Bolgheri D.O.C. 2008

Bolgheri is the Northern part of the Maremma, so in the tasting we went south, then east, and finish here in the North. This is the most famous of the Maremma regions, with wines of great regard being produced for decades now with alluring names like Sassicaia, Solaia, and Ornellaia. The wine is daybright with a purple color clear with a high concentration level, almost non-transparent. The rim variation is very minimal and the staining of the tears is more pronounced here. The aromas of this wine are indeed youthful and still tight needing more refinement in the bottle to reveal its bouquet. What was distinguishable was blackberries and dark chocolate accented by sweet vanillin and cigar smoke, that kiss of French oak quality. Currants and black cherries woke up in the mouth and the wine showed a higher intensity of flavors than the first two, including a new leather quality. The tannins were bigger and still tightly wound, but there was good acidity as well which smoothed out this wines long finish. With some time I’m sure this wine will mature into a great selection and begin to show more of the earthy/minerally complexities that it is currently hiding in its youth. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Sangiovese.

http://www.lemacchiole.it/index.php?lingua=en

Thank you again very much to Il Bacchino Wine Bar for such a great tasting through three different Maremman wines. It was a perfect way to begin to understand how these wines are similar but so very different and unique at the same time.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

Muralia Visited...and Revisited

Societa Agricola Muralia Winery

Roccastrada (GR) Maremma

Visited 16-11-2010


Hello all and Happy late Thanksgiving in the United States. To all others, well, happy day none the least. Rain storms are all around Europe, and I hear that snow may be beginning to fall in the Sierra Nevada Mountains which means the start of ski season. The MaremmaWineShire Wine Expo over the weekend was a great success and I will get caught up to that in the next few days, but let’s talk about Muralia, again. For those of you who are well read you will remember my report about the 2006 Muralia, well today we talk about my visit to the estate.

Located in Roccastrada, in the heart of the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C., this estate is a new project. The estate spans over 14 hectares which include the estate itself, at Poggiarello, as well as two small sites very close to the property. The estate vineyard was researched in the early 2000’s and planted in 2004, and in fact the 2006 ‘Muralia’ was the first wine produced from these vines-amazing. The cellar is simple clean and very functional, and overall the property is a model of the Tuscan countryside.

Stefano Casali and his wife Chiaradonata are caring and gracious people, showing much warmth and passion in their product. It was very kind of them to open their home and take the time to show me the cellar and give me the pleasure to not only experience some of the new 2010 vintage beginning to take form as well as the current selections. I also have to say another thanks you for the trade pass given to me so that I could attend the expo in Milano for both days. So let’s talk some wines…

1) ‘Chiaraluna’ Viognier 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The sole white wine from the winery and a varietal that I am learning is becoming very popular in the Maremma region. Unlike Vermentino, the other popular white grape of the Maremma, Viognier is a fuller bodied white rich in flavors and ripe with fruits and flowers. The style here is to enhance these characteristics without over-extraction, very well achieved. The wine is aged in French barrique with stirring of the lees, much like our familiar California Chardonnays. The wine is brightly colored and exciting on the nose, rich with aromatics of ripe pineapple and yellow pears and a background element of florality. The taste is long and enticing, with a full bodied mouth feel and a pleasant surprising beam of fresh acidity that brings out the minerality and keeps the flavors going. Great structure here and a great effort to say the least.

2) ‘Corbizzo’ Rosato (Syrah) 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

I love a good Rosato, especially with a lighter style food fair. Syrah is a common grape to use, but usually with other grapes to obtain a color that is not too extracted. I was surprised and excited to see the color of this Rosato knowing that it was pure Syrah, which is a very underrated grape varietal in my opinion. (Why drink overpriced underrated Cabernet from California when there is so much underpriced higher rated Syrah people?) I digress and return to my excitement of this Rosato. Light in color and heavy with aromatics of juicy red cherries and mandarin oranges, as well as some strawberries and watermelon fruits come out. Also good orange blossom and pink carnation flowers arose within the senses. A no nonsense straight forward Rosato that is well rounded.

3) ‘Babone’ 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The introduction to the reds is a Sangiovese (65%), Syrah (30%), and Merlot (5%) blend sourced from two of the vineyards owned by the estate. A wine that does not see any time in oak, and the focus is on the purity of the fruit here. Youthful and bright with a firm color concentration from the addition of the syrah, the wine’s nose brings forth the essence dark fruits kissed with balsamic vinegar, black liquorice, and black olives. The wine has a firm tannin structure and a very balanced long finish. A definite winner in the price/quality ratio equation.

4) ‘Altana’ 2007 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.

Here is a strong representation of the promise of the Monteregio D.O.C. and for the Southern Maremma as well. An elegant blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (10%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) that all works perfect in harmony. Dark cherries and plums skins come to mind, with a dark earth component on the nose. I also noted an essence of barrique aging to find out that indeed there is about 20% new barrique used here! Leathery and complex, with the fruits taking on a ripe jammy character on the palate. To me this is still one of the top tier Monteregio’s being produced.

5) ‘Muralia’ 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The second vintage of this wine, and the flagship top tier wine for the estate. Syrah (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Sangiovese (20%) comprise the blend. I am beginning to think that in the future the ‘Supertuscan’ wines will be defined by the North Cabernet based wines, like Sassicaia and Ornalaia, and the South by the Syrah based wines, like Muralia. The climate and terroir is truly an ideal place for such wines. 14 months in barrique and 9 months in bottle before release, a wine that is built for the long haul. Put this wine away because it needs some time to truly develop into the wine it is meant to be. I would be insufficient in my description to say this wine has great structure, and revisiting the notes from the 2006 vintage you can see how much I do like this wine. There are smoky black fruits on the nose kissed by a sweet vanillin quality from the oak influence. Even in its youth this wine shows how great its balance is with firm tannins and bright acidity to work together with them. There is a lot of iron and rocks in the soil of these vines and it shines through to the wine with a hard dark minerality and again the presence of black fruits but now kissed by the balsamic vinegar emerges on the palate.

-Mystery Barrel: One of my favorite memories from my time spent in the Maremma on this trip will truly be the barrel tasting of the mystery wine-Varietal X as it will be called here. A fun project/experiment to say the least, it seems to this wine taster that success is assured. What is it, well as I promised Stefano in the sanctity of our ‘church,’ the wine cellar, I am sworn to secrecy. You know the deal, ‘I could tell you, but then I’d have to kill you’ sort of deal.

Huge thanks go out again to the Casali family for their graciousness. For such a young project the product is remarkable and truly shows how passion and love can be bottled and passed on. Salute!

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Southern Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!