Tenuta Rocca di MonteMassi
Roccastrada (GR) Maremma
Visited 9-11-2010, revisited 2-12-2010
Maremma, the new frontier of Italian wine production. A line that comes right out of the winery pamphlet which I think is very fitting. The Tenuta is one that has a longer history than some of its neighbors, but when you really talk about the estate, you talk about a very big famous player, the Zonin Family. Even if you do not recognize the name, trust me, you would recognize the product. They currently own and operate 9 estates, including Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia. It’s the famous estate that lies in between Monticello and Montpelier (Thomas Jefferson and James Madison) and has been making some top flight wines for over a decade now. I personally am going to seek some out when I get back stateside, as California does not get much influx of Virginian wines.
Now the Rocca di MonteMassi estate is a large one, especially compared with many in the Maremma area, as their vineyards cover an area of some 160 Hectares. Over half of that is Sangiovese, the lifeblood of Tuscany, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Vermentino and Viognier. The great aspect of this estate that sets it apart most wineries, including those in the U.S., is its acknowledgement of history. The Museum of Rural Civilization, an on-site museum, is one that visitors get to take a tour of during their visit. Over 3,000 pieces of artifacts covering not only wine production, but rural agricultural living as it has been for quite some time. It reminded me a bit of the Rubicon estate in Rutherford, with history and wine going hand in hand. Remember that Italy up until about 50 years ago was still very rural in most areas, and in many of the areas away from large metropolitan cities it still is. Maremma, in fact, up until the 1930’s was a vast expanse of marshlands until being drained to promote agriculture. Hard work and farming still dictates daily life. We talk about hand picking grapes to produce a top tier wine; in the Southern Maremma hand picking grapes is more so just the normal way that things are done. With all that said though, this facility did have some of the same positive echoes of a facility out of Napa or Sonoma, things like a beautiful barrel room and a vast space for their high tech tank area.
1) ‘Calasole’ Vermentino 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
Like I have said this is a grape to really watch out for, it’s making a lot of impact in this area for the whites and is one that should definitely be sparking intrigue in the states. A light bright wine with a pale straw color. Ripe fruit flavors, fresh yellow peach and fresh pineapple, hints of white flowers and a light sandy minerality-coastal influence like. The finish is dry and racy with lingering key lime notes.
2) ‘Astraio’ Viognier 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
A new wine for the estate, and a unique addition to the vineyard and the lineup as well. Viognier is a good mix up wine for the Chardonnay drinker. This one was lighter than I would expect from the varietal, but I will contribute that simply to my familiarity to such robust styles from California and Northern Rhone. This had much more of the coastal influence qualities, keeping the ripeness and the full bodied aspects in check a bit. A pale straw yellow color, again light bright and youthful. The intensity on this wine was mellow and fruit forward, mainly yellow peaches and fresh apricots with just that familiar hint of florality on the back end. The mouthfeel was there for a Viognier, a bit fuller and richer with a warmer finish; Viognier usually with be a bit higher on the alcohol, and I noted a lingering hint of ginger root or ginger beer on the finish.
3) ‘Le Focaie’ Sangiovese 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese wine. This is definitely a wine that can be found in the states, I have had in on a wine menu in Sacramento and so I know it is available. I would start at Bevmo, and maybe Totalwines as well. Should be fairly inexpensive and is one that is meant to be enjoyed in its youth. A pale ruby red color, star bright, with an overall softness to its appearance. Tart red cherries and some strawberry jam aromas are complimented by mellow oak spices like clove and some cinnamon stick. Part of this wine (50%) does see about 5 months of large Slovenian oak cask which is where these flavors are coming from. It has a light clean body that is dry and fresh to the taste, with bright acidity and light tannins with lingering earthy flavors on the finish. A great entry level red that is versatile, one would be able to pair many different dishes with this wine and find pleasure.
4) ‘Sassabruna’ 2008 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.
Here we enter into the upper level of the estates’ wines. In vintages before 2008, this was their top wine, but next you will get a sneak preview of their new flagship wine! Again, as you have already seen, the wines from the Monteregio D.O.C. are Sangiovese based. This bottling is 80% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah. Aged for about one year in 350 L barrique, which are slightly larger than the traditional French 225 L barrique, and then allowed to refine in the bottle before release. The larger barrels allow for less influence of oak flavor and preserve the natural fruit flavors in a wine. This is why this wine has more complexity compared to the lightness and freshness of the ‘Le Focaie’.
Again a bright ruby color, a bit darker than the ‘Le Focaie’ due to the Merlot and Syrah blended in, but still vibrant and youthful to the eye. Dark cherries and red plums are accented by the barrique with a hint of vanillin, but more so there is a floral component backed up by a dark earthy woodsy tree bark tinge to the nose. On the palate the fruits turn a bit darker towards the blueberries and same plums with the flowers and dark earth flavors staying consistent. The same woodsy note is there with a tinge of ripe olives on the finish which is dry and long.
5) Rocca di Montemassi 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
The thing to remember sometimes in newer wine regions like the Maremma is that a D.O.C. wine will not always be superior to an I.G.T. wine. For example take this wine compared to the previous ‘Sassabruna.’ Both wines are great but this wine is an experiment and does not conform to the current laws of Monteregio and so it is labeled an I.G.T. wine, one level below the D.O.C. Remember the ‘Supertuscan’ wines of this region, many of which fit into this category of wines not confirming to D.O.C. laws currently. This wine is a Bordeaux Ermitage wine, meaning it is a base Bordeaux blend with the very old tradition of adding a bit of syrah to the wine to beef it up a little bit. The first vintage of this project took 4 years to research, between a collaboration of the Zonin family owners and the famous French enologist Denis Dubourdieu, who consults for some of the top Bordeaux chateau in the region.
Daybright with a deep garnet color and a Med+ concentration, the wine is youthful on the rim with a Med+ viscosity and noticeable staining to the tears. Aromas of Dusty black raspberries, plums, and ripe blackberries mingle with the sweet vanillin of the oak influence. There is a noticeable dark floral quality with a strong earthy minerality and a hint of peppercorn spice in the mid-palate. The finish is long with a silky balance which will approve with time in the bottle. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Syrah.
Thank you to Stefano and Susanna for being such a gracious host and sharing such a wealth of information.
For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!
www.roccadimontemassi.it
info@roccadimontemassi.it
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