Conti di San Bonifacio
Gavorrano (GR) Maremma
Visited 5-11-2010
Let me begin by saying what a wonderful way to spend a sunny Friday by visiting the estate house and being able to enjoy the views from the atop the hill. Also, a big thank you to Amanda Elliott for being such a gracious host with great wines and an even greater wealth of information. Conti di San Bonifacio is a small, relatively new Azienda with loads of charm. Owned by an Italian man and his English wife, the restoration specifications of the private rooms for guests upstairs were hand selected and done with extreme care and an acute attention to detail. The colors are light and airy, really giving a soft touch to the wonderful amenities. The estate is comprised of 7 Hectares (1 Ha=2.47 acres) which is planted to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. Sorry Vino Bianco lovers, no white wine to find here. Located in Gavorrano proper, this is a region encompassed by a classified growing area that will be popping up a lot as I continue my time in the Maremma-Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. The main thing to know here in the short term is that the majority of these wines are comprised with Sangiovese. I will discuss in more depth about this growing area as we progress. Now let’s talk wine!
1)Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. 2007
This was the 1st wine made by the estate, starting with the 2006 vintage. The tasting done on the 5th was all from the 2007 vintage, a good one for Maremma and Tuscany as a whole. I am told the 2008’s will be even better. Again remember here Sangiovese is king, 85%, with 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc. A day bright wine with the proper ruby garnet with a garnet core. A soft rim variation with the faintest of stained tears. Tart red cherry and red plums with some fresh blueberry on the finish. The quality I love, that I found in all the wines here, is a sense of minerality. Warm dry earthy qualities of clay and rocks were very present, which is what comprises the soil of the vineyard, go figure. Also a bit of the woodsy herb stick quality I tend to find in most good Sangiovese based wines from Tuscany. 12 months in Barrique followed by 12 months in the bottle prior to release.
2) Docet (Dough-chet) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (50% Cab Franc, 50% Cab Sauvignon)
Again, let us remember that while the region of Maremma is well known for Sangiovese wines, like Mo-Mo-Mo (Monteregio, Morellino, and Montecucco); we are also in ‘Supertuscan’ territory. The Docet definitely fits into that mold. I especially liked this wine, well made with great depth of flavor, the two grapes were in harmony throughout and one did not overpower, but simply added complexity to the other. Also 12 months in Barrique and 12 months in the bottle for refining.
Day bright with a rich garnet color and a medium plus concentration. The wine was clear and had only a minor rim variation. Also a medium amount of staining to the tears which showed a ‘healthy’ viscosity, somewhat reminiscent of a California wine. Red currants and dark cherries popped right up, as well as violet flowers and pencil shavings, you know, like back from cranking the communal sharpener in the classroom. Dark cool earth components with some licorice hints and dark chocolate on the finish. I really did enjoy this wine, probably my favorite, and would love to revisit down the road to see how complex it becomes.
3) Sustinet (Sus-ti-net) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (100% Syrah)
Maremma is slowly but surely growing quite the reputation for the Syrah grape, and for good reason. This is the 1st one I have tasted on this side of the pond. A good friend and fellow Sommelier Paul Marsh of The Firehouse in Sacramento asked me recently about tasting any, and I am glad to report Paul that this one rocked. It took a moment for it to wake up in the glass, as refined youthful Syrah tends to do, but when it did it was all good. I noticed that the color and concentration was not as deep as many California and Australian versions, which is not a bad thing. Remember the color and concentration comes from skin contact and does not determine the quality of a wine. The fruits were dark and red and brambly, wild berries still on the bush with a little summer dust ascent to them. With some time the leather and chocolate notes emerged over a very smooth rich velvety palate. Full bodied but again with great harmony and the tannins were soft. 12 months Barrique and 12 months refining in the bottle.
For a young winery the team here is doing great work and I look forward to the next opportunity to taste the wines from Conti di San Bonifacio, hopefully in the US where distribution is beginning to take hold. Keep up the good work and thank you again for such a lovely visit, it’s nothing like tasting good wine while looking out over a small sea of vines towards the beautiful Tuscan coast, Salute!
http://www.disanbonifacio.com/
info@disanbonifacio.com
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