Alberto Abati and Ezio Puggelli
Gavorrano (Grosseto) Maremma
Visited 2-11-2010
The first winery in the Maremma I had the pleasure to visit and taste their wines, and was it a treat. The winery itself is fairly new, the beginning of the vineyards being chosen and crafted in 2002. The aim was to make good quality wines on the mold of the ‘Supertuscan’ model so well perfected throughout the coastal stretches of Tuscany for the previous 3 decades. The boldest of the moves was the selection of the varietals, mainly the decision to omit Sangiovese from the 10 Ha of vines planted. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Alicante (we know it as Grenache) round out the reds, and Chardonnay and Fiano for the whites. The cellar and the production areas are state of the art and kept in top form.
The vineyard is a breathtaking site, with views down to the coast and across to the island of Elba, and perfectly managed. Row after row looked very healthy and the vines showed great vigor. I was happy to learn that the Alicante leaves turn a vibrant bright red during the fall, which definitely set them apart from the rest. It was such a pleasure to meet and taste with the two winemakers, Ezio and Alberto, both articulate and charming gentlemen. Here are my notes on the wines we went through:
: Abundantia (100% Merlot) 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
‘Abundance.’ This is the wine that has put this winery on the map and really racked up the awards for it as well. A true flagship wine, and for great reason, it is a fabulous wine that is very well made. Out of the barrel I found it to be quite ripe rich and concentrated, built to be enjoyed by the international market for sure, but also refined and extremely well made. A true representation of just how good the Merlot from this area can be. Again, like all of the wines produced here at Rigoloccio, there is a wonderful and distinct minerality to the wines which are a true expression of the wonderful terroir the grapes are the luxury of experiencing. 2 Bicchieri 2009. The 2008 Vintage just won 2nd place in the National Competition Merlot of Italy. Simply put, it is a great wine and a perfect example of how well the ‘International’ varietals can do in the Magical Maremman Climate. It was actually the last wine of the tasting, but it has to go 1st due to its prestige and importance to Rigoloccio.
2: Chardonnay e Fiano 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT
A fresh wine out of the tank indeed, there was an intensity to the perfume of yellow flowers, and the fruit was ripe but not sweet or syrupy. For me there were white pears and the beginnings of maybe ripe yellow peach or yellow apple-only time will tell! 2008 &2009 both received 2 Bicchieri from the Gambero Rosso
3: Rosato di Cabernet Franc 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT
Another fresh wine out of the tank, and it was tasty. People that know me know I love a good Rosato (Rose’) especially in the summertime around the grill. Obtaining from simply pressing the juice off the skins, it was the pale orange, almost onion skin color. Peaches jumped right out on this one, as well as a touch of some soft pink flowers. We all noted a lingering aroma of watermelon which resided in the glass. A winner in my book, especially with some Grilled Pork or Seafood.
4: Cabernet e Alicante (Cab Fr, Cab Sauv, Alicante) 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
Tank Sample. The un-oaked version of this blend style that they do, a wonderfully fruity and well balanced wine. The Alicante in the blend really does show itself, giving the fruit and earth a brambly quality to the nose and palate. Again very ripe dark berries, but in balance and not to a syrupy effect at all. Dark violets for a florality component as well. I noted in my journal that there was such a freshness to the tannins in both this and the next red blend, which can be contributed to such wonderful terroir. The wine is separately fermented and then blended for maturation and refinement. Its freshness lends it to medium fair, but the body of the wine can definitely stand up to red meats. 2 Bicchieri in 2009
5: ‘il Sorvegliante’ Cab Franc, Cab Sauvignon, Alicante, Petite Verdot 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
The wine, ‘il Sorvegliante’-roughly ‘the watchful eye,’ is different than in past years with the addition of the ripe Petite Verdot vines. This one definitely had ‘Supertuscan’ written all over it. Separate fermentations then blended prior to barrel aging, which comprised about 14 months in French Barrique followed by further refinement of about 8 months in tank before bottling, which will occur sometime next March. Very similar to the previous wine, but here two main things to note. First, the Petite Verdot gave it a darker color and complexity. Second, the oak influence gave another layer to the wine. Aromas of blackberry pie or marmalade popped up with the tinge of sweet vanilla and a touch of toasty wood notes on the finish. Also, like the previous blend, a wonderful minerality rich with hard iron earth and a bit of sand as well. Again very round and smooth with a very long finish. ‘il Sorvegliante’ 2 Bicchieri in 2008 & 2010
6: Cabernet Franc 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
A new project for the winery, a 100% Cab Franc to the lineup. The program is to do about 14 months in French Barrique followed by a few months refinement in tank prior to bottling. I’m a big Cabernet Franc fan, and this one did not disappoint. The fruit was dark red berries with hints of cacao beans, coffee and tinges of the bell pepper/vegetal qualities consistent in Cabernet Franc. It was slight though due to the ripeness of the fruit. The tannins were firm and beginning to soften and round out at its stage in the barrel. A little more time to refine and this will be winning many awards I predict, it’s got my vote.
I hope you all enjoyed my descriptions and small dose of history of Rigoloccio as much as I enjoyed visiting and learning about the estate firsthand. Thanks again to Ezio and Alberto, keep up the great work! Salute!
www.rigoloccio.it
rigoloccio@gmail.com
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