Muralia Visited...and Revisited

Societa Agricola Muralia Winery

Roccastrada (GR) Maremma

Visited 16-11-2010


Hello all and Happy late Thanksgiving in the United States. To all others, well, happy day none the least. Rain storms are all around Europe, and I hear that snow may be beginning to fall in the Sierra Nevada Mountains which means the start of ski season. The MaremmaWineShire Wine Expo over the weekend was a great success and I will get caught up to that in the next few days, but let’s talk about Muralia, again. For those of you who are well read you will remember my report about the 2006 Muralia, well today we talk about my visit to the estate.

Located in Roccastrada, in the heart of the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C., this estate is a new project. The estate spans over 14 hectares which include the estate itself, at Poggiarello, as well as two small sites very close to the property. The estate vineyard was researched in the early 2000’s and planted in 2004, and in fact the 2006 ‘Muralia’ was the first wine produced from these vines-amazing. The cellar is simple clean and very functional, and overall the property is a model of the Tuscan countryside.

Stefano Casali and his wife Chiaradonata are caring and gracious people, showing much warmth and passion in their product. It was very kind of them to open their home and take the time to show me the cellar and give me the pleasure to not only experience some of the new 2010 vintage beginning to take form as well as the current selections. I also have to say another thanks you for the trade pass given to me so that I could attend the expo in Milano for both days. So let’s talk some wines…

1) ‘Chiaraluna’ Viognier 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The sole white wine from the winery and a varietal that I am learning is becoming very popular in the Maremma region. Unlike Vermentino, the other popular white grape of the Maremma, Viognier is a fuller bodied white rich in flavors and ripe with fruits and flowers. The style here is to enhance these characteristics without over-extraction, very well achieved. The wine is aged in French barrique with stirring of the lees, much like our familiar California Chardonnays. The wine is brightly colored and exciting on the nose, rich with aromatics of ripe pineapple and yellow pears and a background element of florality. The taste is long and enticing, with a full bodied mouth feel and a pleasant surprising beam of fresh acidity that brings out the minerality and keeps the flavors going. Great structure here and a great effort to say the least.

2) ‘Corbizzo’ Rosato (Syrah) 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

I love a good Rosato, especially with a lighter style food fair. Syrah is a common grape to use, but usually with other grapes to obtain a color that is not too extracted. I was surprised and excited to see the color of this Rosato knowing that it was pure Syrah, which is a very underrated grape varietal in my opinion. (Why drink overpriced underrated Cabernet from California when there is so much underpriced higher rated Syrah people?) I digress and return to my excitement of this Rosato. Light in color and heavy with aromatics of juicy red cherries and mandarin oranges, as well as some strawberries and watermelon fruits come out. Also good orange blossom and pink carnation flowers arose within the senses. A no nonsense straight forward Rosato that is well rounded.

3) ‘Babone’ 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The introduction to the reds is a Sangiovese (65%), Syrah (30%), and Merlot (5%) blend sourced from two of the vineyards owned by the estate. A wine that does not see any time in oak, and the focus is on the purity of the fruit here. Youthful and bright with a firm color concentration from the addition of the syrah, the wine’s nose brings forth the essence dark fruits kissed with balsamic vinegar, black liquorice, and black olives. The wine has a firm tannin structure and a very balanced long finish. A definite winner in the price/quality ratio equation.

4) ‘Altana’ 2007 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.

Here is a strong representation of the promise of the Monteregio D.O.C. and for the Southern Maremma as well. An elegant blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (10%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) that all works perfect in harmony. Dark cherries and plums skins come to mind, with a dark earth component on the nose. I also noted an essence of barrique aging to find out that indeed there is about 20% new barrique used here! Leathery and complex, with the fruits taking on a ripe jammy character on the palate. To me this is still one of the top tier Monteregio’s being produced.

5) ‘Muralia’ 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

The second vintage of this wine, and the flagship top tier wine for the estate. Syrah (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Sangiovese (20%) comprise the blend. I am beginning to think that in the future the ‘Supertuscan’ wines will be defined by the North Cabernet based wines, like Sassicaia and Ornalaia, and the South by the Syrah based wines, like Muralia. The climate and terroir is truly an ideal place for such wines. 14 months in barrique and 9 months in bottle before release, a wine that is built for the long haul. Put this wine away because it needs some time to truly develop into the wine it is meant to be. I would be insufficient in my description to say this wine has great structure, and revisiting the notes from the 2006 vintage you can see how much I do like this wine. There are smoky black fruits on the nose kissed by a sweet vanillin quality from the oak influence. Even in its youth this wine shows how great its balance is with firm tannins and bright acidity to work together with them. There is a lot of iron and rocks in the soil of these vines and it shines through to the wine with a hard dark minerality and again the presence of black fruits but now kissed by the balsamic vinegar emerges on the palate.

-Mystery Barrel: One of my favorite memories from my time spent in the Maremma on this trip will truly be the barrel tasting of the mystery wine-Varietal X as it will be called here. A fun project/experiment to say the least, it seems to this wine taster that success is assured. What is it, well as I promised Stefano in the sanctity of our ‘church,’ the wine cellar, I am sworn to secrecy. You know the deal, ‘I could tell you, but then I’d have to kill you’ sort of deal.

Huge thanks go out again to the Casali family for their graciousness. For such a young project the product is remarkable and truly shows how passion and love can be bottled and passed on. Salute!

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Southern Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!

Wine Spectator's Top 100

Hello all, Happy Friday. Hope everyone is getting over their turkey hangover and enjoying the “leftover” sandwich that can often be just as good as the Thanksgiving dinner itself. Most people are probably out shopping fighting the mass of crowds and hoards of people trying to save a dollar. Just please remember that this is the time of the year to be happy and patient and enjoy what you have in life, don’t worry so much about what you need to go out and get. Take a moment to thank your family for all that they do for you and tell them all how much they truly mean to you; a little can go a long way.


The end of the year is always an exciting time in the wine business because it’s a time for reflection and to look back and remember some of the stars. Also it’s a great time because you really get the opportunity to share wines with family and friends, something I love to do because it means sharing things I hold dear with those I hold close to my heart. Today I wish to discuss my interpretation of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year, which was released earlier this week. I have been a subscriber to the magazine for about 4 years now and it is one of my favorite annual articles that they do. I always like looking and seeing what I have tasted, what I am selling, and what I should be looking for next time I go shopping and/or talking to my distributors. This year I can sum up my opinion about the list in one word: Disappointing. Especially compared to last year’s list, this year was about as exciting bologna and yellow mustard on stale white bread. Allow me to elaborate….

Last year the focus was to help the consumer and the aim was great value wines and wines that were for the most part fairly widely accessible in the marketplace. Well last time I checked the economy hadn’t gotten any better anywhere and consumers, at least all the ones that I know, are still looking for great value wines. My next point to make is concerning education. I am a Certified Sommelier; it is my job to know about the various wines of the world and to help educate those that I encounter who wish to learn. I feel that Wine Spectator, the most popular wine periodical, has the same responsibility. This not only concerns new wines and regions, but also classics with a longstanding history. My first examples are the wine regions of Bordeaux and Champagne. Arguably the two most famous regions in the world, they combine represent 2% of the Top 100, one selection each- #53 and #96. For a comparison, there are 4 California Chardonnays in the Top 27. Now I can fully understand that regions can vary from year to year in quality, but still, there must be a better recognition and distribution of selections. Take Italian wines. Italy and France go back and forth about every year as to who produces the most wine in the world. This year the whole of Italy has 9 selections, 7 of which are Tuscan. Now living in Tuscany and being a lover of Tuscan wines that is great, but when I looked at what the selections were it was a real let down. Big money producers like Ruffino, Avignonesi, and Frescobaldi to name a few make great wines definitely, but it seems a bit suspicious to me that these are the most exciting Tuscan wines rated, hmmm? Also take the top ranking Tuscan/Italian wine this year #8 Fontodi Flaccianello 2007 (95 points, $110). I have never tasted it, a pure Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico region, and am sure it is good, but the 2006 was also in the Top 10 last year and was rated the highest Italian wine of the year in 2009, at 99 points. Something here seems off. Tuscany has 7 wines in the Top 100, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has 7 selections in the Top 25, and most of those are over $100 a bottle. My last remark I will leave you with, one that really makes me question the motives of Wine Spectator refers to the #14 wine of the year, Dow’s 2007 Vintage Port. This is a wine I have had the pleasure of having around a handful of older vintages and truly is a magnificent wine, and at about $80 a bottle and 100 points, Perfect Score, it is an amazing value. How is this wine #14 and not in the top 3, it makes no sense whatsoever.

Wine Spectator is offering free views for the next day or two for non-members of their Top 100; if you cannot see it I would be happy to send you the list so that you may look it over for yourself.

So as I sign off I give you my advice, listen to your own ratings and scores and use periodicals as nothing more than suggestions. They get paid to publish things and you get pleasure out of enjoying a good bottle of wine. Listen to yourself and enjoy the journey of finding those great bottles along the way. Salute!

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Southern Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

Some New Pics

Hey all, heading back from Milano and the MaremmaWineShire Expo which was a great event to say the least.  I will get everyone caught up on it this week I promise.  For today though, some new pics to put up.
Happy early Thanksgiving to all, drink a good Sangiovese with that bird this Thursday, Salute!

Firenze

A view from Chianti Classico

Just doing my normal thing, Castello di Querceto

Where's Waldo in Firenze?

Tenuta Rocca di MonteMassi...Revisited

Tenuta Rocca di MonteMassi


Roccastrada (GR) Maremma

Visited 9-11-2010, revisited 2-12-2010



Maremma, the new frontier of Italian wine production. A line that comes right out of the winery pamphlet which I think is very fitting. The Tenuta is one that has a longer history than some of its neighbors, but when you really talk about the estate, you talk about a very big famous player, the Zonin Family. Even if you do not recognize the name, trust me, you would recognize the product. They currently own and operate 9 estates, including Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia. It’s the famous estate that lies in between Monticello and Montpelier (Thomas Jefferson and James Madison) and has been making some top flight wines for over a decade now. I personally am going to seek some out when I get back stateside, as California does not get much influx of Virginian wines.

Now the Rocca di MonteMassi estate is a large one, especially compared with many in the Maremma area, as their vineyards cover an area of some 160 Hectares. Over half of that is Sangiovese, the lifeblood of Tuscany, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Vermentino and Viognier. The great aspect of this estate that sets it apart most wineries, including those in the U.S., is its acknowledgement of history. The Museum of Rural Civilization, an on-site museum, is one that visitors get to take a tour of during their visit. Over 3,000 pieces of artifacts covering not only wine production, but rural agricultural living as it has been for quite some time. It reminded me a bit of the Rubicon estate in Rutherford, with history and wine going hand in hand. Remember that Italy up until about 50 years ago was still very rural in most areas, and in many of the areas away from large metropolitan cities it still is. Maremma, in fact, up until the 1930’s was a vast expanse of marshlands until being drained to promote agriculture. Hard work and farming still dictates daily life. We talk about hand picking grapes to produce a top tier wine; in the Southern Maremma hand picking grapes is more so just the normal way that things are done. With all that said though, this facility did have some of the same positive echoes of a facility out of Napa or Sonoma, things like a beautiful barrel room and a vast space for their high tech tank area.

1) ‘Calasole’ Vermentino 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
Like I have said this is a grape to really watch out for, it’s making a lot of impact in this area for the whites and is one that should definitely be sparking intrigue in the states. A light bright wine with a pale straw color. Ripe fruit flavors, fresh yellow peach and fresh pineapple, hints of white flowers and a light sandy minerality-coastal influence like. The finish is dry and racy with lingering key lime notes.

2) ‘Astraio’ Viognier 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
A new wine for the estate, and a unique addition to the vineyard and the lineup as well. Viognier is a good mix up wine for the Chardonnay drinker. This one was lighter than I would expect from the varietal, but I will contribute that simply to my familiarity to such robust styles from California and Northern Rhone. This had much more of the coastal influence qualities, keeping the ripeness and the full bodied aspects in check a bit. A pale straw yellow color, again light bright and youthful. The intensity on this wine was mellow and fruit forward, mainly yellow peaches and fresh apricots with just that familiar hint of florality on the back end. The mouthfeel was there for a Viognier, a bit fuller and richer with a warmer finish; Viognier usually with be a bit higher on the alcohol, and I noted a lingering hint of ginger root or ginger beer on the finish.

3) ‘Le Focaie’ Sangiovese 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese wine. This is definitely a wine that can be found in the states, I have had in on a wine menu in Sacramento and so I know it is available. I would start at Bevmo, and maybe Totalwines as well. Should be fairly inexpensive and is one that is meant to be enjoyed in its youth. A pale ruby red color, star bright, with an overall softness to its appearance. Tart red cherries and some strawberry jam aromas are complimented by mellow oak spices like clove and some cinnamon stick. Part of this wine (50%) does see about 5 months of large Slovenian oak cask which is where these flavors are coming from. It has a light clean body that is dry and fresh to the taste, with bright acidity and light tannins with lingering earthy flavors on the finish. A great entry level red that is versatile, one would be able to pair many different dishes with this wine and find pleasure.

4) ‘Sassabruna’ 2008 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.
Here we enter into the upper level of the estates’ wines. In vintages before 2008, this was their top wine, but next you will get a sneak preview of their new flagship wine! Again, as you have already seen, the wines from the Monteregio D.O.C. are Sangiovese based. This bottling is 80% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah. Aged for about one year in 350 L barrique, which are slightly larger than the traditional French 225 L barrique, and then allowed to refine in the bottle before release. The larger barrels allow for less influence of oak flavor and preserve the natural fruit flavors in a wine. This is why this wine has more complexity compared to the lightness and freshness of the ‘Le Focaie’.
Again a bright ruby color, a bit darker than the ‘Le Focaie’ due to the Merlot and Syrah blended in, but still vibrant and youthful to the eye. Dark cherries and red plums are accented by the barrique with a hint of vanillin, but more so there is a floral component backed up by a dark earthy woodsy tree bark tinge to the nose. On the palate the fruits turn a bit darker towards the blueberries and same plums with the flowers and dark earth flavors staying consistent. The same woodsy note is there with a tinge of ripe olives on the finish which is dry and long.

5) Rocca di Montemassi 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
The thing to remember sometimes in newer wine regions like the Maremma is that a D.O.C. wine will not always be superior to an I.G.T. wine. For example take this wine compared to the previous ‘Sassabruna.’ Both wines are great but this wine is an experiment and does not conform to the current laws of Monteregio and so it is labeled an I.G.T. wine, one level below the D.O.C. Remember the ‘Supertuscan’ wines of this region, many of which fit into this category of wines not confirming to D.O.C. laws currently. This wine is a Bordeaux Ermitage wine, meaning it is a base Bordeaux blend with the very old tradition of adding a bit of syrah to the wine to beef it up a little bit. The first vintage of this project took 4 years to research, between a collaboration of the Zonin family owners and the famous French enologist Denis Dubourdieu, who consults for some of the top Bordeaux chateau in the region.
Daybright with a deep garnet color and a Med+ concentration, the wine is youthful on the rim with a Med+ viscosity and noticeable staining to the tears. Aromas of Dusty black raspberries, plums, and ripe blackberries mingle with the sweet vanillin of the oak influence. There is a noticeable dark floral quality with a strong earthy minerality and a hint of peppercorn spice in the mid-palate. The finish is long with a silky balance which will approve with time in the bottle. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Syrah.

Thank you to Stefano and Susanna for being such a gracious host and sharing such a wealth of information.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!



www.roccadimontemassi.it

info@roccadimontemassi.it

A Moment of Reflection

As I sit here, Thursday night November 11, 2010, I have a moment to reflect back as it is my 7 week mark here in Italy. It has been a long time that has gone by so quickly. I still have vivid memories of the first day in Rome, getting lost-and then finding the way- in Florence, and the crowds of Piazza San Marco in Venice the first 2 weeks. In this short time I have been fortunate to have had some very influential people cross my path, and for that I am very thankful. I also know that this journey is far from over and there will be many more people that will have great bearing upon the destination, which at this point in time, even I cannot definitively determine. To all of my friends and family back home as well, my thoughts are often of you and how lucky I am to be who I am and to have great people like you present in my life. Much love goes out to all of you, sincere thanks indeed.


My friend Adam recently posted a question which I am often asked in my professional life which was ‘What is your favorite/best bottle of wine?’ In my early days I would quickly have responded with an answer like, ‘A Grand Cru Burgundy,’ or ‘Any good producer and vintage of Brunello or Barolo.’ In recent years now though I have grown to take a different perspective which I wish to share with you now. First I must say that my life journey these past 7 weeks have really driven this point home for me and I will elaborate. I can no longer answer the question with a conventional response. I have been so fortunate in my 4 plus years of wine directing and Sommelier work to have had wines that I could almost never have been able to experience (1976 Petrus, 1966 Lafite Rothschild, 2006 Harlan Estate to name a few) otherwise. Now I truly understand that a bottle of wine is a vessel, not to deliver a delicious beverage to the palate, but rather to deliver an unforgettable evening with the special people you share it with.

Take the Sunday night before leaving Sacramento to fly to Rome and begin this adventure. I had the opportunity to share some of the most priced bottles in my cellar with a small group of close friends, and that is what made the bottles so priced. What is better than tasting your ‘favorite’ wines with some of your favorite people? Nothing. Getting to see the expression on a friends face when you show them that they are about to taste a 1979 Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino was worth every penny that the wine cost. There are times when I can remember a good bottle of wine ruined simply because of the company, which is a damn shame. Or take the other side of the equation. Or take the 1984 Alsatian Riesling (my birth year) which was given to me by old boss John Schumacher (Hallcrest Vineyards!) on for my birthday. Being able to open it on Mother’s Day the following year with Mom, Hi Mom-Love Ya! It was a bit over its peak but it didn’t matter, it was the occasion and the moment.

So as I leave you I hope that this small reflection rings home to many and we all begin to truly see about wine in a much different light. Sure, a bottle of 1st Growth Bordeaux or Biondi Santi Brunello is always going to be great, but don’t overlook those everyday wines with special people in your life. Salute!



Thanks to everybody for all the love and support-JNM



Conti di San Bonifacio

Conti di San Bonifacio


Gavorrano (GR) Maremma

Visited 5-11-2010

Let me begin by saying what a wonderful way to spend a sunny Friday by visiting the estate house and being able to enjoy the views from the atop the hill. Also, a big thank you to Amanda Elliott for being such a gracious host with great wines and an even greater wealth of information. Conti di San Bonifacio is a small, relatively new Azienda with loads of charm. Owned by an Italian man and his English wife, the restoration specifications of the private rooms for guests upstairs were hand selected and done with extreme care and an acute attention to detail. The colors are light and airy, really giving a soft touch to the wonderful amenities. The estate is comprised of 7 Hectares (1 Ha=2.47 acres) which is planted to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. Sorry Vino Bianco lovers, no white wine to find here. Located in Gavorrano proper, this is a region encompassed by a classified growing area that will be popping up a lot as I continue my time in the Maremma-Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. The main thing to know here in the short term is that the majority of these wines are comprised with Sangiovese. I will discuss in more depth about this growing area as we progress. Now let’s talk wine!

1)Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. 2007
This was the 1st wine made by the estate, starting with the 2006 vintage. The tasting done on the 5th was all from the 2007 vintage, a good one for Maremma and Tuscany as a whole. I am told the 2008’s will be even better. Again remember here Sangiovese is king, 85%, with 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc. A day bright wine with the proper ruby garnet with a garnet core. A soft rim variation with the faintest of stained tears. Tart red cherry and red plums with some fresh blueberry on the finish. The quality I love, that I found in all the wines here, is a sense of minerality. Warm dry earthy qualities of clay and rocks were very present, which is what comprises the soil of the vineyard, go figure. Also a bit of the woodsy herb stick quality I tend to find in most good Sangiovese based wines from Tuscany. 12 months in Barrique followed by 12 months in the bottle prior to release.

2) Docet (Dough-chet) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (50% Cab Franc, 50% Cab Sauvignon)
Again, let us remember that while the region of Maremma is well known for Sangiovese wines, like Mo-Mo-Mo (Monteregio, Morellino, and Montecucco); we are also in ‘Supertuscan’ territory. The Docet definitely fits into that mold. I especially liked this wine, well made with great depth of flavor, the two grapes were in harmony throughout and one did not overpower, but simply added complexity to the other. Also 12 months in Barrique and 12 months in the bottle for refining.
Day bright with a rich garnet color and a medium plus concentration. The wine was clear and had only a minor rim variation. Also a medium amount of staining to the tears which showed a ‘healthy’ viscosity, somewhat reminiscent of a California wine. Red currants and dark cherries popped right up, as well as violet flowers and pencil shavings, you know, like back from cranking the communal sharpener in the classroom. Dark cool earth components with some licorice hints and dark chocolate on the finish. I really did enjoy this wine, probably my favorite, and would love to revisit down the road to see how complex it becomes.

3) Sustinet (Sus-ti-net) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (100% Syrah)
Maremma is slowly but surely growing quite the reputation for the Syrah grape, and for good reason. This is the 1st one I have tasted on this side of the pond. A good friend and fellow Sommelier Paul Marsh of The Firehouse in Sacramento asked me recently about tasting any, and I am glad to report Paul that this one rocked. It took a moment for it to wake up in the glass, as refined youthful Syrah tends to do, but when it did it was all good. I noticed that the color and concentration was not as deep as many California and Australian versions, which is not a bad thing. Remember the color and concentration comes from skin contact and does not determine the quality of a wine. The fruits were dark and red and brambly, wild berries still on the bush with a little summer dust ascent to them. With some time the leather and chocolate notes emerged over a very smooth rich velvety palate. Full bodied but again with great harmony and the tannins were soft. 12 months Barrique and 12 months refining in the bottle.

For a young winery the team here is doing great work and I look forward to the next opportunity to taste the wines from Conti di San Bonifacio, hopefully in the US where distribution is beginning to take hold. Keep up the good work and thank you again for such a lovely visit, it’s nothing like tasting good wine while looking out over a small sea of vines towards the beautiful Tuscan coast, Salute!

http://www.disanbonifacio.com/

info@disanbonifacio.com

Azienda Agricola Forestale Rigoloccio

Azienda Agricola Forestale Rigoloccio

Alberto Abati and Ezio Puggelli

Gavorrano (Grosseto) Maremma

Visited 2-11-2010

The first winery in the Maremma I had the pleasure to visit and taste their wines, and was it a treat. The winery itself is fairly new, the beginning of the vineyards being chosen and crafted in 2002. The aim was to make good quality wines on the mold of the ‘Supertuscan’ model so well perfected throughout the coastal stretches of Tuscany for the previous 3 decades. The boldest of the moves was the selection of the varietals, mainly the decision to omit Sangiovese from the 10 Ha of vines planted. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Alicante (we know it as Grenache) round out the reds, and Chardonnay and Fiano for the whites. The cellar and the production areas are state of the art and kept in top form.

The vineyard is a breathtaking site, with views down to the coast and across to the island of Elba, and perfectly managed. Row after row looked very healthy and the vines showed great vigor. I was happy to learn that the Alicante leaves turn a vibrant bright red during the fall, which definitely set them apart from the rest. It was such a pleasure to meet and taste with the two winemakers, Ezio and Alberto, both articulate and charming gentlemen. Here are my notes on the wines we went through:

: Abundantia (100% Merlot) 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

‘Abundance.’ This is the wine that has put this winery on the map and really racked up the awards for it as well. A true flagship wine, and for great reason, it is a fabulous wine that is very well made. Out of the barrel I found it to be quite ripe rich and concentrated, built to be enjoyed by the international market for sure, but also refined and extremely well made. A true representation of just how good the Merlot from this area can be. Again, like all of the wines produced here at Rigoloccio, there is a wonderful and distinct minerality to the wines which are a true expression of the wonderful terroir the grapes are the luxury of experiencing. 2 Bicchieri 2009. The 2008 Vintage just won 2nd place in the National Competition Merlot of Italy. Simply put, it is a great wine and a perfect example of how well the ‘International’ varietals can do in the Magical Maremman Climate. It was actually the last wine of the tasting, but it has to go 1st due to its prestige and importance to Rigoloccio.

2: Chardonnay e Fiano 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT
A fresh wine out of the tank indeed, there was an intensity to the perfume of yellow flowers, and the fruit was ripe but not sweet or syrupy. For me there were white pears and the beginnings of maybe ripe yellow peach or yellow apple-only time will tell! 2008 &2009 both received 2 Bicchieri from the Gambero Rosso

3: Rosato di Cabernet Franc 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT
Another fresh wine out of the tank, and it was tasty. People that know me know I love a good Rosato (Rose’) especially in the summertime around the grill. Obtaining from simply pressing the juice off the skins, it was the pale orange, almost onion skin color. Peaches jumped right out on this one, as well as a touch of some soft pink flowers. We all noted a lingering aroma of watermelon which resided in the glass. A winner in my book, especially with some Grilled Pork or Seafood.

4: Cabernet e Alicante (Cab Fr, Cab Sauv, Alicante) 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
Tank Sample. The un-oaked version of this blend style that they do, a wonderfully fruity and well balanced wine. The Alicante in the blend really does show itself, giving the fruit and earth a brambly quality to the nose and palate. Again very ripe dark berries, but in balance and not to a syrupy effect at all. Dark violets for a florality component as well. I noted in my journal that there was such a freshness to the tannins in both this and the next red blend, which can be contributed to such wonderful terroir. The wine is separately fermented and then blended for maturation and refinement. Its freshness lends it to medium fair, but the body of the wine can definitely stand up to red meats. 2 Bicchieri in 2009

5: ‘il Sorvegliante’ Cab Franc, Cab Sauvignon, Alicante, Petite Verdot 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT
The wine, ‘il Sorvegliante’-roughly ‘the watchful eye,’ is different than in past years with the addition of the ripe Petite Verdot vines. This one definitely had ‘Supertuscan’ written all over it. Separate fermentations then blended prior to barrel aging, which comprised about 14 months in French Barrique followed by further refinement of about 8 months in tank before bottling, which will occur sometime next March. Very similar to the previous wine, but here two main things to note. First, the Petite Verdot gave it a darker color and complexity. Second, the oak influence gave another layer to the wine. Aromas of blackberry pie or marmalade popped up with the tinge of sweet vanilla and a touch of toasty wood notes on the finish. Also, like the previous blend, a wonderful minerality rich with hard iron earth and a bit of sand as well. Again very round and smooth with a very long finish. ‘il Sorvegliante’ 2 Bicchieri in 2008 & 2010

6: Cabernet Franc 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT
A new project for the winery, a 100% Cab Franc to the lineup. The program is to do about 14 months in French Barrique followed by a few months refinement in tank prior to bottling. I’m a big Cabernet Franc fan, and this one did not disappoint. The fruit was dark red berries with hints of cacao beans, coffee and tinges of the bell pepper/vegetal qualities consistent in Cabernet Franc. It was slight though due to the ripeness of the fruit. The tannins were firm and beginning to soften and round out at its stage in the barrel. A little more time to refine and this will be winning many awards I predict, it’s got my vote.

I hope you all enjoyed my descriptions and small dose of history of Rigoloccio as much as I enjoyed visiting and learning about the estate firsthand. Thanks again to Ezio and Alberto, keep up the great work! Salute!

www.rigoloccio.it

rigoloccio@gmail.com

Societa Agricola Muralia 2006

Hello all; how was the weekend? I hear the weather throughout California has been quite warm and so I do hope that you all took the opportunity to get out and have some fun outdoors. Its Sunday night here for me in Bagno di Gavorrano, and the rain that was threatened did finally show up around sunset. A good days worth of work has me relaxing-just fine with me. The whole weekend was warm sunny weather here and yesterday I spent the day in Follonica on the coast. Nothing better than a good pasta lunch and a nap on the beach, reminds me of the good old simple Santa Cruz days.


So today’s blog will cover the first installment of my firsthand experiences of the wines of the Magical Maremma as I have come to see this area of Tuscany as such. In my studies I have seen this area referred to as the ‘California of Italy’ or the ‘El Dorado of Italy.’ All I know is that it is warm and green with a healthy amount of vineyards, olive groves, and passionate wine people.

The wine I will focus on is a great expression of the new international ideal of the direction of the wines of Maremma. Most everyone knows that Tuscany is Sangiovese country, from the Chianti regions to the Brunello’s of Montalcino this is the king of grapes. Many have been experimenting for some time though with international grapes, mainly the Bordeaux varietals and Syrah, for some time. Cabernet Sauvignon actually has a few hundred years of history in Tuscany. These are the cleverly coined ‘Supertuscans,’ wines that for a long time did not and have not fit into the traditional molds of Italian wine laws. Bolgheri/Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was the first to change that back in 1984 Today’s wine is Muralia.

Societa Agricola Muralia ‘Muralia’ Maremma Toscana IGT 2006

A fairly new winery located in Roccastrada (Gr), the 2006 bottling was actually their 1st vintage produced. The main varietals planted are Sangiovese and Syrah, along with some other selections of grapes used to enhance the aromatics of blends. The bottle tasted is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. I do not have the percentages to list, but the literature I do have present lists them in that order-which is the order I would have to guess for the composition. Fermentation in steel tanks followed by maturation in Barrique for 14 months and another 9 months to refine in the bottle.

The wine is bright with a slight opaque core, Inky purple color with a high concentration (non transparent). The rim variation is forming notably with a softening of the concentration. Medium plus viscosity with heavily stained tears. A touch of sediment from bottle aging noticeable, especially towards the bottom.

The nose is clean with a medium intensity, which woke up with some time in the glass. Fresh black fruits like currants and plums complimented with dark chocolate shavings and a cold dark earthy element on the nose. Also a hint of vanillin lingered on the nose, a sure sign of the French oak barrique.

A clean, balanced, well made wine on the palate. The flavors are confirmed with the fruit taking a back seat to the secondary aromas. The earthiness and an inky florality wake up and the dark chocolate is still firm. Also the oak influence reemerges on the long finish. This is a full bodied wine with a thick palate-not syrupy- but with firm tannins and soft acids. The alcohol, 14%, is a bit noticeable on the finish as a lingering warmth, but it is not displeasing. I definitely liked the wine and it showed just as well the second night of it being open.

This is a great time of year in Maremma because it’s the heart of hunting season. Most everyone knows of the famous Cinghiale (Wild Boar), but another treat is Lepre (Hare). We had a Lepre Ragu with pasta followed by the traditional cheese course and it was Heavenly. Slowed cooked game/meat stew or a nice piece of red meat is harmonious here. Welcome to Maremma and Salute!


Webpage in English:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://www.muralia.it/&ei=Vh3XTJujJ8_2sgaxmO3dCA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBYQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmuralia.it%26hl%3Den%26prmd%3Div

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Vinarkia della Pavona Vineria, Notte Due

Via Fillungo 188, 55100 Lucca, Italy

Happy days happy days, the San Francisco Giants are World Series Champions! I’m sure the parade was amazing and there are many people still staggering around drunk off of the excitement. I would tell everyone I saw how happy I am, but American baseball isn’t on many peoples’ radars over here in these parts. Oh well, I am keeping the Orange and Black Pride proud on this side of the pond. It’s Thursday night, about 7:15 PM my time, and I am tired from a day of travelling to Grosseto, the main metropolitan city in the Maremma area of Southern Tuscany. It reminded me a lot of Lucca in that it also has an old center surrounded by walls and I went not only to check things out but they have a big open air market on Thursdays, and it was big. Clothes, kitchen items, food, flowers, etc. A good way to eat up the better part of a day, I would definitely go back just to people watch. And it’s always good to get the lay of the land the first time through, especially when you don’t have a map in hand.


To get down to some wine business though, we need to finish up with Lucca and get into talking about some Maremma wines, which will come very soon-I promise. So like I said I had found a great little spot in Lucca right by the hostel and enjoyed dinner there both nights. Vinarkia-Part Due:

Vinarkia della Pavona Vineria, Night Two

1) Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rose’ D.O.C.G. Non-Vintage
I have found so far from my travels that almost no places list the name of the producer of the Prosecco that they serve. It’s one of those nonverbal agreements between the buyer and the seller, if we are pouring it then trust us that it’s good. Also, Prosecco Rose’ is a bit of a rarity, especially in the US. Off the top of my head I am hard pressed to name a producer, oh well, I’m sure it’s out there all you have to do is ask. This is one of Italy’s most popular sparkling wines, and is almost always dry to taste. The grape used is of the same name, Prosecco, and comes from the Veneto in Northeastern Italy. Valdobbiadene is known as a premier sub-region, and thus it bears the highest denomination, the D.O.C.G. The other you will see on labels is Conegliano, which is also top tier. The big thing to note about Prosecco that differs from true Champagne or many of the California sparklers you may be more familiar with is how it’s made. Inexpensive stuff is almost always done in the quick easy method (Charmat Method), where they pump Carbon Dioxide (the bubbles) into the tanks of still wine. The good stuff, Metodo Classico, is the same way that true Champagne is made with the 2nd fermentation done in the bottle so as to give it the Carbon Dioxide. Either way its fun to try the two styles side by side and see if you can tell a difference. This Rose’ style was atypical, light and dry with straightforward strawberry and peach flavors with a light dry body. Uncomplicated and easy drinking, the way it should be. Think about it with starters or anytime during the summer months on the patio.

-1st Course: Zuppa, a fall style Tuscan Ribollita with vegetables, beans and bread with good olive oil

2) Marchesi Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007 D.O.C.G.
Ok, now I know this is a wine you can find at almost any respectable wine shop. Bevmo for sure among others. Volume wise, one of the biggest producers in all of Italy. Quality wise, if it says Frescobaldi on the label it’s going to have a good consistent flavor. This specific wine is one I have personally sold for a number of years and have always had very good results with it. Sangiovese dominant (90%) with complimentary grapes added to round out the palate; this was my first time tasting the 07 vintage, and it was out of a fresh half bottle. Proper ruby color with a medium concentration, star bright and youthful looking, the legs had some moderate weight to them and a fair amount of staining to them. Traditional red berries fruits with the key notes for a Chianti, woodsy herb sticks like rosemary underneath. The wine did take a bit of time in the glass to open up; it was initially tightly wound from still being a bit young. I know this wine gets a fair amount of oak influence and that could be part of the reason. It was well structured and had a long finish which had great balance. Being a Riserva, it was a bit bigger than many Chianti’s and should, like many Riservas, be given some additional time in the bottle to harmonize. I’d be willing to put some money on the line that the 2004 vintage is drinking quite well right now, hmmm maybe I have some homework to do?! Enjoy with heavier fair and robust sauce type pasta dishes.

http://www.frescobaldi.it/en/our-wines/from-our-wine-estates/nipozzano-riserva-chianti-rufina-docg.html

2nd Course: I had to confirm that the Carpaccio from the night before was the best I had ever had, and indeed it was. Something about the Chianina beef and that pecorino cheese-I can still taste it!

Dessert Course: Crème Brulee, so nice I did that twice too.

Salute!

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Vinarkia della Pavona Vineria, Lucca, Notte Una

Cheers all, how was Halloween? It being one of my favorite holidays I do wish I could have spent it with many of you, but I am doing some great things over here of my own and am not regretful in the least bit. As I sit here and write today’s blog, it is Tuesday evening, about 6 PM my time. Great news to report, I just got back home from my 1st wine tasting appointment in Maremma, and it was wonderful, I will be reporting about it here very soon, I promise. Today I want to finish up with Lucca though, because I have to tell everyone about the fun little trattoria that I discovered right by the youth hostel, it was so nice that, like my lunch spot Marsti Costantino Wine Bar, I went there twice.


Also, being Tuesday I do know that last night was Game 5 for the Giants, but I have not yet checked the result, so I hope they closed it all out and the citizens of San Francisco have not caused too much havoc in the streets.

I’ve decide to divide each night into its own blog so as to keep the length manageable and focus on each of the selections a bit more. Both nights I did take advantage of their ‘Il Menu di Giorno.’

Vinarkia della Pavona Vineria, Night One

1) Fabbiamo Vermentino 2009 Toscana
Like I have been saying this is an exciting varietal that you should get to know, it’s fun and versatile and will work well with a wide array of foods. Star bright with a light golden yellow color which is fairly intense in concentration. It is very youthful looking with a good viscosity to it; this wine is showing that it has some body. White peaches and yellow apples with a tinge of straw/hay grassy undertones. Minerals from the sea, it almost has a salty sandy aromatic quality. The flavors are consistent across a long clean finish where there is high acidity and a moderately high level of alcohol on a plump body. A nice change of pace for the California Chardonnay drinker, especially with Fish or even to White Meat.

-1st Course: Tortellini Pasta with Prosciutto in a Cream Sauce, a nice match indeed.

2) Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti 2008 D.O.C.G.
A very easy wine for most anyone to find state-side, considering Frescobaldi is one of the largest volume producers in all of Italy. This is a basic level Chianti meant to be light soft and easy drinking in its youth, not one to lay down and cellar, do that with the Montesodi Riserva or the Brunello wines. The girl taking care of me brought it because I asked for a glass of red that she liked {8^). Day bright with a medium color concentration of light garnet/ruby that faded towards the rim. Medium viscosity with soft tinges of staining to the tears. Moderate intensity to the nose with Black cherries and dark plums (some blending of Merlot &/or Cab Sauv?) as well as some violet florality. Also some warm rocky mineral notes. The flavors stay through the taste and I get the traditional woodsy flavors on the palate as well as some hints of chocolate, again blending suspicions, on a dry wine with a medium body on a medium finish.
http://www.frescobaldi.it/

-2nd Course: Carpaccio from the Chianina Cattle of Tuscany with a Semi-Firm youthful Pecorino

-Dessert: Crème Brulee which was a great way to finish the meal.

Salute!

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Salute!