Azienda Agricola Roccapesta

Azienda Agricola Roccapesta


Scansano-Maremma, Tuscany, Italy

Visited 20-1-2011

I know I was in the middle of Bordeaux, but I thought a bit of a mix up would be nice to keep things diverse, so here is a great estate I discovered this week...

The town of Scansano is located about 30 kilometers southeast of Grosseto, and is an important location these days for Tuscan wines. Although wine production has been happening in this region for some time now, only very recently has it received the acclaim and acknowledgement that it duly deserves. For you see Scansano is the epicenter of the recently elevated Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G.

In much of the Maremma area change comes slow and only in the last few years have the main regions begun to show promise. Scansano is a bit different though, its history extends back a bit further. When you drive through the hills of the area though, you feel as though much is the same as it was some 50 or 100 years ago. Today much of the wine production is concentrated directly outside of the town to the northwest. Much of the area to the south is still mostly woodlands, untamed wilderness with the occasional olive grove on the side of a hill. Great land for the cinghiale and for quiet. With some well rewarded searching though, one can find the gem of this area tucked away, Azienda Agricola Roccapesta.

The history of this farm has two chapters, the beginning and the current times. Original plantings of Sangiovese from 1975 still very much exist in the vineyards, as well as the new planting projects from 2004/2005. The Tanzini Family, the current husband and wife owners, saw this as one of the big advantages of purchasing the property. Since their acquisition in 2003 many renovations have been and continue to be done to bring this farm into the modern times of winemaking. While still very much a work in progress, the results are definitely paying off and showing what great potential this estate has for the future.

Margareta Tanzini was my guide for the tour of her property, and I found her enthusiasm and hospitality warm and inviting. She acknowledges that the estate is still much in the works, but is happy with the progress thus far and looking forward to the upcoming years to begin to redefine the high quality level the property has achieved. 2004 was the families 1st vintage, and with 2007 they introduced a 3rd wine to the line-up of the 2 Morellino wines already in production.

The vineyard sites accumulate to be 15 Hectares, most of which is Sangiovese. There are 9 separate recognized clones in the vineyards, each having its own attributes which help to produce a wine with many layers. The remaining varietals are comprised of native vines like Ciliegiolo, Malvasia Nera, and Pugnitello. The last is a very rare varietal that was found in the old part of the vineyard and is slowly being reintroduced. It is yet to be determined what will happen with this varietal. The soils in the fields are a mix of predominantly clay with some volcanic rock and other stones intermixed. There is enough natural water retention so as to allow the property to operate without the need for irrigation.

The primary oenologist is Andrea Paoletti who has worked for Antinori and currently is working with Valdicava of Montalcino as well as Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in Bolgheri. His partner, and consulting oenologist is Daniel Schuster from New Zealand who has worked at various properties in regions including California and France.  It’s easy to see the juice is being taken care of quite well. The grapes and vines are some of the most looked after I have encountered in the Maremma. In the vineyards painstaking care is exerted, around 600 man hours per Hectare, to ensure the highest quality grapes are delivered to the winery. Once harvested, manually into very small bins, the grapes are passed through 3 times to guarantee that only ripe mature grapes make it into the press. Once gently pressed gravity flow takes the juice directly into tanks, mostly steel with some large French oak and cement vat as well, where they begin their journey into winehood. Only natural yeasts are utilized for fermentation. Roccapesta does choose to use some barrels for maturing some of the wine produced, but they prefer larger barrels so as to help preserve the delicate flavors of the Sangiovese grape. These will range from 500-2500 liters. From my visit and tour it was easy to see that there was great care put into the property and that every step was being taken to ensure a high quality end product in all 80,000 bottles produced annually.

1) Masca di Roccapesta Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2007

85% Sangiovese, 15% Ciliegiolo

This is a new project for the estate, and the 2007 was its inaugural vintage. This is produced from the new planting young vines and is aged without any influence of oak barrels. Margareta expressed that she enjoyed this wine as one you can simply open up when you begin cooking a meal for your family, one that is good in flavor and you don’t have to think too much about.

The wine is a daybright clear ruby red color with a medium concentration. There is a subtle rim variation formed and the water line at the edge is noticeable with the fading of the color. The tears have a firm viscosity and no not show signs of staining.

The aromas on the nose are mellow but balanced. Simple and enjoyable are the warm red berry fruits offset by gentle earth tones. The palate is medium in body and easy drinking. The fruit flavors are clean in their precision, soft and red again balanced with the defined rocky minerality on the finish here. Definitely an easy drinker and one that would go well with an array of foods.

2) Roccapesta Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. 2007

96% Sangiovese, 4% Ciliegiolo

With the Morellino wine here we begin to get into the core of what this property is centered around, showcasing the Sangiovese grape in all its glory.

3) ‘Calestaia’ Morellino di Scansano Riserva D.O.C. 2006

100% Sangiovese

For me this is a wine that could represent a new class of wines. Everyone knows of the ‘Supertuscan’ wines created some years ago in response to new ideas and grape varietals. Well this is a wine that could easily be classified as a ‘Super Sangiovese’ in that it is a wonderful example of the grape varietal when done with some modern and international influence. Sourced strictly from the original 1975 plantings, this wine is aged for some 30 months in varying sizes of French oak barrels. The wine is then aged in bottle for a minimum of 1 year before release. A flagship wine that is enjoyable upon release, but will definitely reward the patient consumer as it is has a long life in the bottle.

The wine is a clear daybright deep garnet color with a medium plus concentration, though still transparent. The wine is still quite youthful with only a faint water line at the edge and the color still holding strong towards the rim. There is pale staining to the tears which are firm in their viscosity.

There is a clean intensity to this wine. The flavors are ripe and focused, accented by the harmony of the French oak influence. Sweet blackberries and black cherries are dressed with vanillin and sweet tobacco. The earth notes hide behind the ripeness f the fruit, but are defined by a dark compact soil quality.

The palate is strong in flavors that last a long time. There are big tannins here which play nicely with the high level of preserved acidity from the Sangiovese. Ripe blueberries wake up with a little warmth across a medium body that has some leathery qualities towards the finish, which goes on and on. This wine reminded me of a modern style Brunello di Montalcino in its weight and longevity throughout. I cannot wait to revisit this wine in a few years and see how much complexity has developed in the bottle.

Again thank you very much to Margareta Tanzini for her hospitality, the visit is a highlight of my whole time spent in Italy. The second chapter of this properties history is young and continuing to define and shape itself, but based on what is already in the works there is much to be excited about at Azienda Agricola Roccapesta. Drink well my friends, Salute!

http://www.maremmaevents.com/

http://www.roccapesta.it/

info@roccapesta.it