Madrid, France
8-1-2011
In the land filled with one Tapas Bar after another, the capital city of Spain has many different things to offer to locals and tourists alike. The sites are amazing, the buildings beautiful, the central park vast and peaceful, and the food is pretty great too. Here, much like throughout Italy, pork reigns supreme. The famed Serrano Ham is in almost every window, with someone ready to hand slice some for the next plate going out. Many places offer a complimentary tapas plate with your beverage, which usually consists of a few bites of something that they choose. Other places have a tapas menu that they offer complimentary selection at your discretion. The ultimate place I found did a free sandwich with your filling choice with a beverage. For 3 Euro I got a nice cold beer and a sandwich for lunch, not bad indeed. In a country where wine is very much a well known drink, beer seemed to be more popular, even in the winter time. Interesting phenomenon I thought.
Despite this fact there is plenty of good wine to be found. I found a street filled with one Tapas bar after another with some restaurants intermixed. One place, Leon de Oro, caught my eye with its modern design and blackboard covered with wine by the glass options. A magnum of Rioja Reserva on the counter decanted for service didn’t hurt their cause either. Here are the selections I recorded on my visits to the Enoteca. I should mention that I am still learning about the various wines of Spain as they have never been a focus due to work, and so I was excited to be able to experience some new selections.
1) Palacio de Menade Verdejo, Rueda 2010
To my memory, which does slip at times, I cannot say that I have had a pure Verdejo before. I found it quite enjoyable and surprising to be honest. In a land known for its warm climate and wines that can get a bit ‘hot’ this was a cool breeze to relax me. The wine reminded me a bit of an uncomplicated New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, it was light in color and concentration, with a tartness to the citrus and a grassy tone as well. It was light and racy on the palate, pleasant and refreshing. The two interesting notes were the green apple jolly rancher aromas on the nose and the warmth of the palate despite its lightness. Not complex, but enjoyable and great for starters all the same.
2) Pazo Senorens Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2009
Here is a pretty popular white wine in the U.S. market these days. If you are unfamiliar with Albarino, it comes from the northwest corner of the country and is grown very near the coast. It trickles down into Portugal where it is called Alhvarino. In short, I tell people the easiest answer is to think about it like a Pinot Grigio and go from there. The wine was very youthful with great brightness, and a bit of trapped gas with the opening of a new bottle, with a lighter color then some can be. Fresh green apples and lemons with strong tones of crushed white rocks and calcium/sand minerality from the oceanic influence. The wine is medium bodied and dry, with sharp refreshing acidity and a concentration of the flavors on the palate. Would go good with fish carpaccio
3) Predicador Rioja 2008
Rioja is the most well known region in all of Spain, lying a bit north of Madrid and to the west of Barcelona. It is a continental climate that is influenced by the Duero River. The main grape is Tempranillo, with other grapes blended into the wines. There is a traditional style which is more old barrel aging for longer times, and the international modern style to use more new French oak barrique which gives quite contrasting flavor profiles. The wine had a high extraction to the color and intensity, and was very youthful overall. The fruit contained a warm dry quality, all red berries, with some blueberry tones as well. There was warm dark earth and some mineral tones as well, but the palate was warm and a bit lean throughout. Not my favorite selection, and a bit overpriced.
4) Lealtanza Rioja Reserva 2004 (Magnum)
Here is the magnum decanted on the counter, and a representation of the older, more traditional style of Rioja. There was more oak influence on the nose, but the notes were the key markers for older barrels and longer time spent in them. The fruits were again dried in quality, ranging from cherries and raspberries again getting a bit darker towards blueberries. There were some smoky meaty notes that mingled with the dry compacted earth tones and the load of minerals on the finish. The wine was good, not great, but at half the price of the Predicador it delivered a much better value.
5) Emilio Moro Finca Resalso, Ribera del Duero 2009
The region of Ribera del Duero is west of Rioja, again being influenced by the Duero River. Here Tempranillo is also the king of the wines. This selection was 100% Tempranillo in fact, with 4 months aging spent in French barrique. The wine was very bright with a youthful ruby red color. The nose was intense with dark fruits like fresh blackberries and dark raspberries. The oak influence gave a slight sweetness of vanillin but more so a heavy smoky tone hiding the dark earth qualities. This is a young straightforward wine that was fruity throughout, with secondary flavors being masked by the oak influence. The palate was warm and the wine was lacking a bit of substance throughout to the finish. I have had some good Ribera del Duero’s, and this is not one of them.
There are many different regions throughout Spain and their wines can greatly vary due to the grapes and the climates. I find that the same people that like bigger, fuller bodied wines with higher alcohols enjoy most quality Spanish wines. For me it is still a mystery sometimes when I am looking at a label, and find that more often than not I prefer the traditional style of a nicely aged Rioja, some of which can last for over 25 years. Lopez & Heredia Vina Tondonia is a pricey example, usually about a $100+, but the 1981 I opened last September was amazing and holding up very well. I am interested in continuing my exploration of the wines of Spain so that I can find some good go-to wines for you, the ultimate consumer. Look for some ‘Tuesday Night Selections’ to be exploring many international selections, including Spain. Salute!
