Thursday, February 10, 2011

Podere Ristella

Montemassi (GR) Maremma, Toscana, Italy

Visited 19-1-2011


People often stay in the middle of the road, choosing the comfortable path rather than differing from the norm of their everyday. Rather than taking a chance on something new they go with the tradition. People say, ‘why try something new, I like this one and so why change it?’ I am a firm believer that if it not broken then why try to fix it, in business, but not in enjoyment. It is no secret that I love wine, hence why I have chosen it as the focus of my career in life. And even in my professional life I am constantly being shown new things, and being surprised by what I find. Think about the possibilities that those outside of the profession have. What I am trying to say is that if we always stick to the labels and producers we know then we will miss out on so many good products because of their unfamiliarity. Think about it like this, is the first wine you ever tried in your life your favorite wine today?

Podere Ristella is a small farm operated for 3 generations now, first being acquired in the 1940’s. This is a small property that likes it that way. They produce good quality wine on a selection of vineyards 7 Hectares in size. Sangiovese is the most planted varietal, but they also have Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah for some international varietals. The soils are a mix of clay with some sand and skeletal rocks to keep the quality low which varies from the different parcels of the property. As of current writing the wines are not imported to the U.S., but still they are a great example to you that the small unknown guy can make great stuff just like the big names.

1) ‘Bazzico’ Vermentino 2009
The only white wine made by the Podere, and has gained them some acclaim at various local tasting shows. Traditional youthful appearance with a light color concentration, the wine even had a faint expression of trapped CO2 gas. The aromas were firm and ripe with yellow peach and sweet citrus notes, also a candied green apple tinge. The sandy, oceanic minerality woke up on the dry light-bodied palate, warm throughout from the alcohol (14.5%), but it found balance against the fresh acidity.

2) ‘Stancabove’ Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. 2007
The ‘Tiring Cow’ wine represents the traditional wines from the area, Sangiovese based (80%), with 10% each of Ciliegiolo and Malvasia Nera. The wine is highly concentrated and deep in color for a Sangiovese based wine, which carries through to the aromatic intensity. The fruits are dark and fleshy, complimented by warm loose dark earth tones. There is a slight woodsy quality to the palate which carries through the medium body to a clean finish.

3) ‘Giovenco’ Syrah Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2007
The first vintage for the Syrah was in 2005, and so it is still a new project for the estate. It has all the signs of a pure syrah, deep purple color which is inky and non-transparent with a very firm concentration even at the rim. Also the tears have a strong staining effect from the thick flesh of the syrah berries. There is a firm intensity to the aromas, warm fleshy berry fruits as well as the dark florality in the back. Also look for a faint gamey note scented with a bit of blood (Sounds odd, I know, but this is a key marker for Syrah, especially from warm climates). The body is firm and well structured with refined tannins and a perfumed finish with fresh fruits and rocky minerality.

4) ‘Ghitto di Naldo’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2007
This is the estate’s 1st of two ‘Supertuscan’ blends, here a balance of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese in equal proportions. The style seems to be to have strong color and extraction in the wines, evident here as well to the eye. The rim was beginning to show lightening of color and variation. The nose had a mellow intensity, fresh blackberry and blueberries kissed with vanillin and backed by cool mossy earth tones. The mouth flavors turned more to ripe red fruits and had hints of leather and warmer earth notes. A balanced wine with rounded yet firm tannin structure, and a lengthy finish.

5) ‘Armigero’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2005
The flagship wine of the estate, a Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) based wine with 20% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. Aged for 18 months in New French barrique and left in the bottle for further refinement for 24 months. At almost 4 years of process before release, it’s amazing to think they only charge about 15 Euro a bottle!
A bright deep garnet color with a strong opaque concentration. The rime was softening to ruby red with a faint bricking effect beginning. Toasty vanillin accented the sweet black berry fruit qualities. Hints of mint intermixed with the fresh earthen notes. Lots of fresh fruit on the palate, mostly black, with the refinement of the firm tannins and a great balance throughout. Persistent finish that kept going for a while.

6) Occhio di Pernice 2003
This is a very rare wine selection that is unique to Tuscany. It is the red version of a classic Vin Santo, utilizing dried Sangiovese rather than the Trebbiano/Malvasia grapes for the white/amber version. The color was ruby red with definite browning to the rim. There were classic nutty dried fruit qualities to the nose, but berry fruits rather than the apricot/fig notes. The wine was long and weighty on the palate and sweet to the taste, very interesting wine. Would be perfect with some dark chocolate or even some chocolate cantucci cookies.

7) ‘Ulisse’
An interesting dessert wine that has a refined richness to it. Think sweet raisins and intense dried fruits. Goes great with chocolate also, but I like the idea of baked figs with Gorgonzola all wrapped with some prosciutto!
Thanks again to Podere Ristella for opening their doors and welcoming me for an interesting tasting. It is always a pleasure to experience good wines in the casual atmosphere where you get the true feeling that it is still a farm and this is still a daily life existence.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

ww.ristella.it

info@ristella.it






No comments:

Post a Comment