Jeremiah's Wine Tasting Blog: Chateau La Mission Haut Brion

Chateau La Mission Haut Brion

Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France

Visited 23-12-2010

First off I must give a special thank you to our wonderful hostess for the visit to the estate, Laetitia Dubos, who truly made the visit an exceptional time. She was extremely knowledgeable, in a charming way, and it was a treat for Margaux and I to have a private tour of the property.

Pessac Leognan is a sub-commune in the Northern part of the Graves commune which extends South from the city of Bordeaux on the left bank of the Garonne River. The vineyards in this area almost literally back up to the south end of the city. It is also this area that has some of the oldest chateau in all of Bordeaux, much more so than the Medoc to the North. The Graves commune was first organized with a classification in 1953, which was finalized in 1959. It listed houses of Grand Cru Classe level for both red and white wines, but did not rate each house against another. Today, La Mission Haut Brion can claim Grand Cru Classe levels for both its Grand Vins, red and white. In 1987 the sub-commune of Pessac Leognan was established officially as an area of special interest for the best chateau of the Graves for still wines.

La Mission Haut Brion has a very long and fabled history. As I truly believe it is important to understand the past to grasp the present. Where the chateau is today is a product of what it has undertaken and accomplished over the past 4 centuries. We shall begin with Madame de Lestonnac who, in the 17th Century bequeathed the domain of La Mission Haut Brion to a congregation of Lazarist priests founded by Saint-Vincent de Paul. Although vines had already been planted on the estate, it is with the skill and care of these priests that the history of La Mission truly begins. Their dedication and toils quickly saw great benefit to the vines, and the resulting wines in the cellar. In 1698, a small church, or ‘wine chapel’ you may say, was consecrated on the property which still stands today and is included in the tour of the estate. Through the 18th Century the wines from La Mission, whose property lies directly across the road from Chateau Haut Brion, were revered as some of the best not only for Graves, but the whole of Bordeaux. It is the cross symbol which can be found throughout the property, including ordaining the bottle, which is to pay homage to these priests who built the foundation for La Mission Haut Brion. History brings us to the French Revolution and the seizure of the domain from the Lazarist priests. The next important time and family for the estate were the Chiapellas, ship owners and traders from New Orleans, who were determined to continue the strides of the priests. In addition to maintaining the highest standards for the vineyards, because of their background they were also able to expand the markets for the wines of La Mission into many New World ports. The large sailboat that adorns the roof of the house as well as reminders throughout the estate are tributes to this family. This brings us into the 20th Century and the Woltner family, passionate winemakers responsible for the current reputation held by the estate today. They took over the property in the early 1900’s and strived to make it the best regarded Chateau in all of Bordeaux. There are merchant records from 1922 that prices the 1918 vintage as being 2nd in price only to its neighbor Chateau Haut Brion. Given it was not at this point a classified Chateau and yet was outperforming 1st Growths from the Medoc is quite an accomplishment.

As of 1983, to present day, Chateau La Mission Haut Brion has been owned and operated by Domaine Clarence Dillon S.A.S., the owners of neighboring property Chateau Haut Brion since 1935. When the opportunity to acquire the estate presented itself the family knew it was the right thing to do. They in fact acquired all three of the properties, La Mission Haut Brion, La Tour Haut Brion, and Laville Haut Brion. As for La Tour Haut Brion, the 2005 vintage would be its last separate bottling and labeling. The vineyards of this site have been mainly absorbed into the 2nd wine of La Mission, the La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion, with the best old vine sites being contributed to the La Mission wine. As for Laville Haut Brion, solely a white wine vineyard which owes its name and amazing founding to Marie Laville, like the wine under the La Mission label it also enjoyed much fame and prestige through the years. The Dillon family decided to return it to its origins, and with the 2009 vintage onward the wine will be labeled Chateau La Mission Haut Brion Blanc. To come full circle, the vineyards are the same with all the sites; it is just now much easier for the consumer to identify what is in the bottle.

The Dillon family began improving the properties immediately upon their acquisition of the chateau. This second Renaissance for the Chateau was to reinstall the ‘Peace and Mysticism’ aspect that the Lazarist priests had implanted centuries before. Updating the vineyards with the best selection of plantings took place, and still does in rotation today. No vines that are under 15 years old go into the production of La Mission Haut Brion, all of the grapes from these young vines is reserved for the La Chapelle 2nd label. Also in 1987, after seeing the success at Chateau Haut Brion, the family installed a brand new vat room with only stainless steel tanks for fermentation of the wines. This allowed for a cleaner, more sterile environment for the wines as well as a simplifying of the process control for the vignernons. In 2007 much of the renovations had been completed with the crown jewel being a brand new chai, or cellar. Truly a piece of artwork, simple and functional, think of this as the 2nd wine chapel where if you listen closely enough I think you can still hear the Lazarist priests blessing the barrels.

The vineyards of La Mission Haut Brion today are comprised of about 26 Hectares, the majority of which is planted to red varietals. 47% is Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% is Merlot, and the final 11% is Cabernet Franc. For the small plots of white vines, 87% is Semillon and 13% Sauvignon Blanc. The average age of the vines is about 27 years, and the soil is a characterized by a mixture of sand and gravels of various sizes in the top over a heavier clay and limestone rich subsoil. 80% of the barrels used for the wines are constructed and toasted on site, by a professional from the Seguin Moreau Cooperage Company with 100% Allier Troncais French Oak. A nice touch to be able to control your barrels on the premises.

During the tour we finished with a tasting of 2 wines, the first:

Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 2004 Pessac Leognan Grand Cru Classe

55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc

75% New Oak, Duration 18-22 Months

Production: 8,000 Cases Annually

The wine was Daybright with a rich garnet color which is clear and has a Medium Plus concentration. There are no signs of gas or sediment. The rim variation on the wines is beginning to form, but still has a very youthful appearance, the staining of the tears is moderate and the viscosity of the wine is Medium Plus.

The nose of this wine has a medium intensity but is focused and driven. It is definitely clean with a complexity that suggests dark red fruits as well as layers of subtle secondary aromas from spices to earth. The essence of cigar box and cedar, along with a dry dark earth aroma lingers.

The palate of this wine confirms the focus and drive of the nose. The wine is clean with wonderful complexities throughout. Dark red cherries and raspberries are complimented again by a dry earth component, rocky and warm dusty clay. There is the introduction of a touch of sweet smoky vanillin from the French oak and a bit of peppercorns on the back of my palate. The wine was dry with great balance, long and persistent with firm but silky tannins and moderate acidity to keep everything in check. Drinking great now and will continue to improve for some time.