Fattoria di Magliano

Fattoria di Magliano

Magliano-Scansano-Maremma, Tuscany, Italy

Visited 20-1-2011

The area of Magliano is the epicenter for vineyards in the Scansano commune. Leaving Scansano and heading southwest you quickly are into the wilderness that defines the Maremma region, pure and natural-unspoiled. The region as a whole is naturally very undulating, with these best sites situated in the high elevations between Scansano and Magliano. I noted that the drive was somewhat reminiscent of the Santa Cruz Mountains in Central California. Again here much of the environment is untamed and the roads are small and filled with curves. Driving to Fattoria di Magliano one does notice a common site on the hills intermixed among the olive groves, rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. Yes there is clay based topsoil, but in addition to the varying smaller sized stones in the vineyards there are large boulders that have been unearthed and await their undetermined future. After a few kilometers and countless turns, the fattoria is upon us.

The first thing one notices is just how skeletal the soils in fact are here, again the rock heavy topsoil keeps the vines well drained as well as contributes a high amount of minerals to the resulting fruit. Currently there are about 50 Hectares of vines planted, the oldest of which are from the purchase of the estate in 1998. The vineyard is comprised of about 15 Ha Sangiovese, 12 Ha Merlot, 12 Ha Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 Ha Syrah, and 4 Ha Vermentino. The first vintage of production came in 2001, with the two original labels of the fattoria, Heba and Poggio Bestiale. Since then they have expanded to wines which will I will cover. Current production is between 200-250,000 cases a year depending on the harvest, about half of which is the Heba.
The property optimizes modern techniques to produce high quality wines, including both stainless steel as well as cement tanks for vinification, with the top class wines being aged in French oak barrique. Since the beginning their agronomist has been Valerio Barbieri, and he has been improving the vineyards since their inception. Consulting oenologist is Graziana Grassini, one of the top consultants in the Maremma. She currently consults for over a dozen quality sites throughout the region. It was a pleasure to get to meet her on my visit as her and the management team, along with owner Augustino, were discussing the blend for the new vintage of the Rosato. Let’s get into some wines…


1) ‘Pagliatura’ Vermentino Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2009
The best white grape of Tuscany is thriving in the Maremma, taking full advantage of the warm climate and, especially here in the higher elevations, the contrasting cooling effects. The first vintage of this wine was bottled in 2002. The wine is done in stainless steel tanks on the fine lees for 3 months then refined for at least 6 months in the bottle.


The wine has a light yellow youthful brightness to the color with a moderate concentration. The wines characteristics are light and fresh, with soft ripe citrus tones balanced against light peach qualities. The finish is bright with acidity and accented well with clean minerality.


2) ‘Heba’ Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. 2009
The newest D.O.C.G. for Sangiovese in Tuscany as of the 2007 vintage, the wines from this area are really beginning to define themselves well on the market. The blend here is 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah, aged for 6 months in cement vats prior to bottling, unfiltered. It is their base red and the largest label under production. A wine to be clean, easy, approachable.


The wine has a light ruby color with a medium concentration, youthful and bright in the glass. The wine is fruity and easy drinking, with tart cherry and raspberries offset by a light herbal tinge to the palate. The wine is soft in body with bright acidity and cool flavor qualities throughout. Reviewing my tasting notes of the 2008 I find this vintage softer and less fleshy.


3) ‘Sinarra’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2009
Here is another wine from their base level, non-oaked selections. The wine is almost pure Sangiovese, which a few percent of Petit Verdot in the blend. They have a very small amount of this varietal planted as some younger vines. This wine is aged exactly the same as the ‘Heba,’ 6 months in cement vat followed by 6 months refinement in the bottle.
It is interesting to compare this wine to the ‘Heba’ because you find similarities and differences. In sight the higher percentage of Sangiovese softens the concentration of the ruby red color, but the ripeness of the Petit Verdot emphasizes the dark red fruits on the palate. Also the body of this wine seems a bit firmer in its youth and a touch more complex as it stands now.


4) ‘Poggio Bestiale’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2008
With this wine we get into the upper level of the wines in production from the property. A Bordeaux style blend consisting of 40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, fermented in steel with skin contact lasting 20-25 days. This vintage was aged in French oak barrique for 15 months and refined in the bottle for a minimum of 6 months. With the ‘Heba,’ this label was the original wine from the fattoria.
The wine has a very dark ruby/garnet color with a firm concentration; although still has some transparent qualities. The wine is quite youthful in its rim and still has a bright shine. There is a high intensity to the aromas, a mix between ripe dark fruits and smoky oak, with the play of sweet vanillin lingering behind. There is a rocky earth minerality that wakes up on the palate which is robust and youthful. The tannins are firm but polished on a long persistent finish. Needs a little time, but has great promise.
The estate also makes a wine called ‘Perenzo,’ a small production pure Syrah which is considered their flagship wine. The wine is said to be pure and dense, robust with finesse. It was excluded from the tasting on this day.
I would like to thank Lorenzo Scian for offering the visit to the property and tasting. It was a very good showcase of the property and displayed the quality of terroir that the fattoria possesses. Although still in the category of a younger property with fewer than 10 vintages in the cellar, there is promise to continue to improve and produce quality wines. Salute!

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

www.fattoriedimagliano.it



Brasserie Canta Amelia

Brasserie Amelia Canta



Saint Emilion, France


25-12-2010

By now I realize it’s very belated, but Merry Christmas. I am working hard to try and catch up to more present times, but as you can see and read there is a lot to talk about, as I, like the French, really do like to celebrate their food and wine.

So Christmas day was the last full day that Margaux and I would be spending together, and it was also the last day that we would have the Smart Car, so we decided to spend the day on a day trip across the Gironde to Saint Emilion. A small charming town that is a wine lover’s Mecca to say the least, much like Bordeaux proper and Graves the vineyards literally back right up to the city. We figured most everything would be closed, but remained hopeful that we would be able to find a place to have lunch after walking around the store fronts. Well I am happy to report that we lucked out tremendously with Amelia Canta. The town itself is very small, and this brasserie is located in the main place in the center of it all, hard to miss.

The place was pretty full when we arrived and, everyone seemed to be in good spirits, maybe because of the holiday, but maybe because of the good libations too.  The wine menu was well supplied with many different Saint Emilion wines spanning a few vintages.  It is kind of funny that the whole time in Bordeaux, Europe as a whole in fact, I have not had a single bottle of wine decanted, even offered.  No sweat I figure, as the whole atmosphere does seem to be a bit laid back, but still…  Well I am happy to report that up to this point this was the best wine service given.  I want to stress to people reading, and it may seem like a little thing, but ALWAYS cut your foil cap below the lip of the bottle-never above!  And always wipe the lip before you begin to pour.  Both these actions were, for the first time in France in fact, done correctly!  I mention the decanting only because the wine I selected was a half bottle of Chateau Laroze Saint Emilion Grand Cru 1999.  It definitely needed some air and it did through sediment.  But let’s talk food first.

We were on a bit of a time constraint and so we went for the 2 course pre-fix menu, a main and a dessert.  This may shock you based on past articles, but I went with the Duck!  Crazy me, I know, haha.  It was the best single dish I had in my whole time in France, barely eclipsing the cake from Beaune because I couldn’t eat the cake every day, but the duck I could.  It was a perfectly braised leg with a great skin, full of flavor.  It was finished in an Orange sauce that was screaming with the duck.  A simple potato cake and a warm slaw were the accompanying sides.  Simple, fresh and flavorful, I could ask for nothing more.  Margaux also got the duck and was very pleased as well.  Considering the menu for the 2 courses was something like 16 Euro I felt very satisfied.

Dessert had a few options, and we picked two different selections.  Margaux went for an apple dessert that is hard to explain, but was easy to enjoy.  I’m not sure what to call it, but from the picture you get a good idea.  I decided to go a new route for me, learning my lesson in avoiding chocolate to save myself disappointment, and went for a Raspberry Pain Perdut.  So simple, so easy and so tasty, especially with my last few sips of wine!  Sure a long processed, contrived extravagant dish can be amazing, but a simple dish can be just as good.

And back to the wine, let’s talk about it for a bit.  My next post to follow this article will be my second visit to the Max Wine Gallery, which will be dedicated entirely to wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux.  This is Saint Emilion and Pomerol mostly.  To coincide with that posting I will also be adding my amendment to my Bordeaux section so that you can read a bit and learn the simple facts about this area in Bordeaux.  So I will save time and space here.  Like I said it was Christmas day, and even a hard working Sommelier like me needs a break from the rigors of recording his wine notes, no nothing was written, only cataloged mentally.  The wine was very consistent with what to expect from a Saint Emilion wine in color and concentration.  The flavors I recall were quite enjoyable, red fruits well preserved despite its age, although they had begun to mellow and tinge more on the dry side.  This wine was definitely all about the secondary flavors of tobacco, cigar, and coffee tones, intermixed with the abundant warm red clay soil earthiness.  I thought overall the wine showed well and was pretty much reaching its peak drinking window, especially in the half bottle format.  You could hold onto it for a few more years, but I do not see it improving at this point, but will be great for a while longer.  It was about 24 Euro for it I believe, which I felt was fair for the age. 

All in all the Christmas holiday was going great, we drove around a bit and found Chateau Cheval Blanc, which was kind of a mess as the facility is going through major construction projects, and also got to drive by Chateau Figeac.  Never could find Chateau Petrus, also we tried….but ran out of time and had to get the car back.  Margaux and I were very excited though, as Christmas dinner was shaping up to be, and ultimately would end up, the culmination of an amazing gastronomic and vinonomic experience through France.  Salute!



Max Wine Gallery Visit 1

Max Wine Gallery Visit 1



Bordeaux, France


24-12-2010

Hands down this place has to be the best place in all of Bordeaux for experiencing the best wines of the region. Visiting the chateau themselves cannot be substituted, but not even in the States can I think of a place where you can taste so many great wines in one location. They offer a range of some 50 or so of most of the best Bordeaux wines in production, in a clean well conceived environment. I thought even the general map of the region on one of the walls to help tasters understand the region a bit was brilliant in a modern sort of way. Looking back now as I begin to recount my experiences it makes me wonder why other regions have not come up with this idea. So if anyone wants to invest I will create for them the best wine tasting room out there for their region! Napa Valley, hello???? I mean San Francisco has The Press Club, where you can experience wine country without leaving the city, but their focus is a bit different than the Max Wine Gallery.



Here is how it works. You load a tasting card, 25 Euro increments, and each wine is set up on an Argon gas preservation chamber. You know, the fancy wine dispensing cabinets that are becoming oh so popular these days. They are sheek, expensive, and a sign of meaning business. Overall they are a good system, but like anything else, I am a purest and feel that introducing anything, if possible, should not be done. But to support this volume I understand the method. And though the system does mostly work for preserving the wines for longer than normal, I have found that it only prolongs life for a bit. As I will highlight through my tastings here, 3 of the 20 wines I visited I did find were sitting for too long. With that said I still highly recommend this Gallery as the best place in Bordeaux to taste wines. Just do what I did, look for nearly full bottles and ask if anything had been replaced that day, simple right?


I am also going to divide up my tastings of the 20 wines into 4 installments to make it easier, and highlight different topics for ease for you. With this I will begin to add to the resource bar and begin to post my regional descriptions section so that as you read along about the wines you can learn a bit about Bordeaux, a little at a time, to better grasp the wealth of information this famous region holds. I mean let’s face it, Bordeaux is the most famous red wine, and dessert wine, region in the world now (sorry Napa Valley).


And so with this first posting I thought a good place to begin would be with would be the value wines that I aimed to try. This is of course all relative, but I found these wines to be of more approachable cost points. It is also a mixture of wines from the Left Bank, the Right Bank, and Graves. If this sounds like a foreign language it will be clearer as you go through the study guide summary for Bordeaux! And so let us begin by talking about some wine…



1) Chateau Carbonnieux Pessac Leognan-Graves Rouge 2006

I found this wine online for about $30 U.S. at various outlets, so it is out there. They are classified Grand Cru Classe in the Graves for both their red and white 1st labels.


The wine was Daybright with a medium garnet color, clear although barely transparent with a medium plus concentration. The rim was youthful with only the beginning of variation forming. The tears were solid, medium plus viscosity, and showing firm signs of staining.


The nose was of a mellow intensity, showing signs of candied red cherries and warm gravelly soils. The flavors were subtle and uncomplicated, with a palate that was straightforward with tart red fruits in the forefront.


88 Points Wine Spectator


http://www.carbonnieux.com/

2) Chateau Haut Bailly Pessac Leognan-Graves Rouge 2006


Another accessible wine as it is still definitely in the value category. It is another classified Grand Cru Classe for reds from Graves.


The wine is Starbright with a brilliant garnet color, deep and clear with a medium plus concentration. The rim still holds much youth but is beginning to lighten and vary, whereas the tears are showing staining on a moderate viscosity.


The nose has a medium intensity to the nose, but is pure and complex. Dark red fruits and fresh blackberries support, but hide behind, loads of dark cool earth components accented by a light hand of smoky oak.


The palate is long and persistent with the same fruits throughout with a pleasant addition of a dark violet florality and a tinge of liquorice on the finish. I really found this wine to be a great quality/value wine! A winner indeed.


92 Points Wine Spectator


http://www.chateau-haut-bailly.com/

3) Chateau Petit Village Pomerol 2006

This is another wine that I felt would be fairly accessible, and was at a very attractive price in the shop, under 30 Euro, one of their least expensive wines being poured in fact. Unfortunately the bottle had been opened too long and greatly affected by over-oxygenation. A shame.


88 Points Wine Spectator


http://www.petit-village.com/

4) Chateau Calon Segur Saint Estephe 2006


A chateau I always find consistent and of good quality. Classed in the 1855 Medoc rating system as the only 3rd Growth from the commune of St. Estephe, making it the 3rd best chateau in the whole region behind only Estournel and Montrose. For about $60 U.S. a bottle, that’s a good value.


The wine is has a simple brightness with a clear deep ruby color and medium concentration. The rim is youthful with the beginning onset of variation. The tears are only lightly stained and the viscosity is medium plus.


A wine with a moderate intensity to the nose, displaying the power of Cabernet and the rustic tinge that St Estephe can display. The nose has a warm dark potting soil earthiness with dark fruits and flowers to compliment. There is an undertone of sweet vanillin from the French oak as well.


The palate shows a purity and balance throughout, with dark red fruits and dark earth running through. There is also a hint of mint emerging around the rustic qualities of this wine. Firm tannins that will improve with a bit of time.


92 Points Wine Spectator


5) Chateau d’Armailhac Pauillac 2003


This is a property that is adjacent to and currently owned by Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a 1st Growth. Armailhac was classed as a 5th Growth in 1855. It can in a way be viewed as a way to get a glimpse into the style of Mouton. Also a fairly good value as you can usually find these wines for about $60 U.S.


The wine is Daybright with a clear ruby red color with medium concentration. Due to it being a bitter older than other selections the rim variation is more pronounced and there is definite softening of the color at the edge with a noticeable water line. The wine has moderate viscosity and soft staining of the tears.


There is an intensity to this wine which hints towards the warmth of the vintage. Dried red fruits of currants and cherries and plums dominate the subtle secondary flavors. These include leather and violets with some liquorice and spice tones.


The palate is again warm and rich with dried fruits, turning more to bright red berries. The tannins are firm but the acidity was well preserved to maintain the balance in this wine. The finish was long and intense with the secondary flavors being hinted at throughout. This was a nice surprise and, like the Haut Bailly, a winner of the value tasting at this stage.


91 Points Wine Spectator


http://www.bpdr.com/

So here we have the first round of tastings complete, covering each of the 3 regions of Bordeaux. In the next installment of the Max Wine Gallery tastings we are going to be covering wine strictly from the Right Bank. Salute!




Azienda Agricola Roccapesta

Azienda Agricola Roccapesta


Scansano-Maremma, Tuscany, Italy

Visited 20-1-2011

I know I was in the middle of Bordeaux, but I thought a bit of a mix up would be nice to keep things diverse, so here is a great estate I discovered this week...

The town of Scansano is located about 30 kilometers southeast of Grosseto, and is an important location these days for Tuscan wines. Although wine production has been happening in this region for some time now, only very recently has it received the acclaim and acknowledgement that it duly deserves. For you see Scansano is the epicenter of the recently elevated Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G.

In much of the Maremma area change comes slow and only in the last few years have the main regions begun to show promise. Scansano is a bit different though, its history extends back a bit further. When you drive through the hills of the area though, you feel as though much is the same as it was some 50 or 100 years ago. Today much of the wine production is concentrated directly outside of the town to the northwest. Much of the area to the south is still mostly woodlands, untamed wilderness with the occasional olive grove on the side of a hill. Great land for the cinghiale and for quiet. With some well rewarded searching though, one can find the gem of this area tucked away, Azienda Agricola Roccapesta.

The history of this farm has two chapters, the beginning and the current times. Original plantings of Sangiovese from 1975 still very much exist in the vineyards, as well as the new planting projects from 2004/2005. The Tanzini Family, the current husband and wife owners, saw this as one of the big advantages of purchasing the property. Since their acquisition in 2003 many renovations have been and continue to be done to bring this farm into the modern times of winemaking. While still very much a work in progress, the results are definitely paying off and showing what great potential this estate has for the future.

Margareta Tanzini was my guide for the tour of her property, and I found her enthusiasm and hospitality warm and inviting. She acknowledges that the estate is still much in the works, but is happy with the progress thus far and looking forward to the upcoming years to begin to redefine the high quality level the property has achieved. 2004 was the families 1st vintage, and with 2007 they introduced a 3rd wine to the line-up of the 2 Morellino wines already in production.

The vineyard sites accumulate to be 15 Hectares, most of which is Sangiovese. There are 9 separate recognized clones in the vineyards, each having its own attributes which help to produce a wine with many layers. The remaining varietals are comprised of native vines like Ciliegiolo, Malvasia Nera, and Pugnitello. The last is a very rare varietal that was found in the old part of the vineyard and is slowly being reintroduced. It is yet to be determined what will happen with this varietal. The soils in the fields are a mix of predominantly clay with some volcanic rock and other stones intermixed. There is enough natural water retention so as to allow the property to operate without the need for irrigation.

The primary oenologist is Andrea Paoletti who has worked for Antinori and currently is working with Valdicava of Montalcino as well as Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in Bolgheri. His partner, and consulting oenologist is Daniel Schuster from New Zealand who has worked at various properties in regions including California and France.  It’s easy to see the juice is being taken care of quite well. The grapes and vines are some of the most looked after I have encountered in the Maremma. In the vineyards painstaking care is exerted, around 600 man hours per Hectare, to ensure the highest quality grapes are delivered to the winery. Once harvested, manually into very small bins, the grapes are passed through 3 times to guarantee that only ripe mature grapes make it into the press. Once gently pressed gravity flow takes the juice directly into tanks, mostly steel with some large French oak and cement vat as well, where they begin their journey into winehood. Only natural yeasts are utilized for fermentation. Roccapesta does choose to use some barrels for maturing some of the wine produced, but they prefer larger barrels so as to help preserve the delicate flavors of the Sangiovese grape. These will range from 500-2500 liters. From my visit and tour it was easy to see that there was great care put into the property and that every step was being taken to ensure a high quality end product in all 80,000 bottles produced annually.

1) Masca di Roccapesta Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2007

85% Sangiovese, 15% Ciliegiolo

This is a new project for the estate, and the 2007 was its inaugural vintage. This is produced from the new planting young vines and is aged without any influence of oak barrels. Margareta expressed that she enjoyed this wine as one you can simply open up when you begin cooking a meal for your family, one that is good in flavor and you don’t have to think too much about.

The wine is a daybright clear ruby red color with a medium concentration. There is a subtle rim variation formed and the water line at the edge is noticeable with the fading of the color. The tears have a firm viscosity and no not show signs of staining.

The aromas on the nose are mellow but balanced. Simple and enjoyable are the warm red berry fruits offset by gentle earth tones. The palate is medium in body and easy drinking. The fruit flavors are clean in their precision, soft and red again balanced with the defined rocky minerality on the finish here. Definitely an easy drinker and one that would go well with an array of foods.

2) Roccapesta Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G. 2007

96% Sangiovese, 4% Ciliegiolo

With the Morellino wine here we begin to get into the core of what this property is centered around, showcasing the Sangiovese grape in all its glory.

3) ‘Calestaia’ Morellino di Scansano Riserva D.O.C. 2006

100% Sangiovese

For me this is a wine that could represent a new class of wines. Everyone knows of the ‘Supertuscan’ wines created some years ago in response to new ideas and grape varietals. Well this is a wine that could easily be classified as a ‘Super Sangiovese’ in that it is a wonderful example of the grape varietal when done with some modern and international influence. Sourced strictly from the original 1975 plantings, this wine is aged for some 30 months in varying sizes of French oak barrels. The wine is then aged in bottle for a minimum of 1 year before release. A flagship wine that is enjoyable upon release, but will definitely reward the patient consumer as it is has a long life in the bottle.

The wine is a clear daybright deep garnet color with a medium plus concentration, though still transparent. The wine is still quite youthful with only a faint water line at the edge and the color still holding strong towards the rim. There is pale staining to the tears which are firm in their viscosity.

There is a clean intensity to this wine. The flavors are ripe and focused, accented by the harmony of the French oak influence. Sweet blackberries and black cherries are dressed with vanillin and sweet tobacco. The earth notes hide behind the ripeness f the fruit, but are defined by a dark compact soil quality.

The palate is strong in flavors that last a long time. There are big tannins here which play nicely with the high level of preserved acidity from the Sangiovese. Ripe blueberries wake up with a little warmth across a medium body that has some leathery qualities towards the finish, which goes on and on. This wine reminded me of a modern style Brunello di Montalcino in its weight and longevity throughout. I cannot wait to revisit this wine in a few years and see how much complexity has developed in the bottle.

Again thank you very much to Margareta Tanzini for her hospitality, the visit is a highlight of my whole time spent in Italy. The second chapter of this properties history is young and continuing to define and shape itself, but based on what is already in the works there is much to be excited about at Azienda Agricola Roccapesta. Drink well my friends, Salute!

http://www.maremmaevents.com/

http://www.roccapesta.it/

info@roccapesta.it



Christmas Eve Miracle

Christmas Eve and the Miracle of Bordeaux


Bordeaux, France

24-12-2010

The holiday season is for most people their favorite time of the year. I have to agree, that as the year ends and the reflection upon the last 360 some days have compiled there is a lot to contemplate. Families travel far and wide, and brave sometimes horrible conditions (thanks SNCF train from Lyon to Bordeaux), and all in all most people are generally in a good mood unless they are doing their holiday shopping. Even overseas it appears that people succumb to the same pitfalls of rushing around and getting upset when things take longer than normal, like shopping lines and parking spots. It’s all funny to me, but I think I am one of few who view it this way. I am going to take the next few paragraphs to simply recount a wonderful afternoon Christmas Eve with no plans and just soaking in the spirit of Bordeaux, and the miracle that came about from it.

So after a morning of making it to Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in the south Margaux and I were free the rest of our time together before her departure for Prague via Paris. So after some great grilled cheese sandwiches, decadent French style of course, for lunch we headed back into the town center. We had no reservations for dinner, but knew that we wanted to visit a wine bar tasting room highly recommended, separate blog reports to follow. So we decided to park the little Smart Car and walk around for a bit near the Grand Theater. We could go to the tourism office and get a map of Saint Emilion, visit the Christmas market, and stop into a shop and get some delicious macarons. And so we began and had success at the tourism office, map and directions in hand we were set for Christmas day success. And then my wine intuition, you could say my big nose even, kicked in. There was a wine shop a few doors down from the tourism office and I wanted to go in. This is where my Christmas Miracle would begin…..

The shop, name forgotten sorry, was busy enough with all the normal fair of a Christmas Eve afternoon, most people off work probably and finishing their shopping and enjoying the day all in all. The shop had a warm feeling, bright colors and good prices, and the organization by region made it extremely easy for even the Bordeaux amateur to navigate the field with success. I wasn’t in any position to do any buying, but I do always like to shop and label admire. I have seen pretty much every producer, although not tried them all, and it honestly helps me remember my studies by looking at labels. Chateau Calon Segur is the one with the heart on the label and is the only 3rd growth from Saint Estephe, things like that. Also it helped me explain to Margaux a bit easier with visuals, like to show her Sauternes like Chateau D’Yquem and Guiraud and Climens. We hadn’t had any of the Sauternes wines yet and so it was difficult to explain them because she had not tried one before, and so I was going to be sure to buy a sample that evening and have her experience a good one.

Well the meter on our parking was running low and we had macarons to buy, and so we headed for the door when a voice from my left, although it could have been from Heaven, stopped me with my hand inches from the door. It was a man in the corner wearing a black suit and a smile that was contagious. He asked where we were going as he grabbed a bottle from his table. I quickly noticed he was doing a wine tasting and he, in French of course, murmured something that I of course could not understand except for two words- Chateau D’Yquem. If we had been playing poker my face would have been a sure tell, and then he said the real Chateau D’Yquem. To catch everyone up to speed Chateau D’Yquem is the most sought after Sauternes wine in all of Bordeaux, the highest classified and always the best produced. Furthermore it is considered by the majority of the professional wine community as the best dessert wine in the world, and I up to that point in my life had never tried it. I looked at Margaux and told her the macarons could wait. The vintage was 1995, the temperature was perfect, the pairing was Foie Gras, and the opportunity unforgettable. For sale for 290 Euros a bottle, but the tasting was free. This is a wine that was so pure, so focused and so just well damn good I have no notes for it. I know I will taste Yquem again in my life, but this first time was all about the emotion for me. It truly was a miracle to have had this occur, he could have easily let us walk out the door, we could have passed by the shop entirely, so many factors could have changed the course of the day to have diverted my path, but fate prevailed.

I know by now the holiday season has passed and we are on to a new year. But still I wish to have everyone remember to relish the little things, the opportunities that pop up and the road less travelled. Live more and worry less. Take time to enjoy life, one good glass of wine at a time.

I am signing off here with a quick update for my blog page. I am looking forward to beginning to install some new ideas in February. First off we are going to start talking about value wines and I am looking forward to refocusing the articles to be more beneficial for you the reader. Every Tuesday I will pick one wine that will always be under $15 and feature it as my ‘Tuesday Night Wine,’ a great bottle at a great price. Also I am going to reintroduce everyone to my education installments on Fridays. I want to help you learn how to taste and analyze wine so that you can better judge not only if it is a quality wine, but to help you better understand new unfamiliar wines. These will be good ‘experiments’ to do with friends on the weekends. I am trying to think of other ideas to help benefit you as well, maybe a wines of the week article or something…and so advice posted in the comments of this article would be great. Also please answer the poll(s) that I put up as this helps me better focus my aim to better target my readers. All together though 2011 is going to be a great year and I hope you are all as excited about the improvements coming to my blog as I am anticipating producing them.

Salute!



Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte



Martillac (Pessac Leognan), Bordeaux, France


Visited 24-12-2010

“Give me good grapes, and I will make you good wines.”-Emile Peynaud

How simple, how famous, how true. At the true core of beliefs the essence of what rings true with all winemakers is this, you cannot make good wines from bad grapes. The ground must be nurtured and kept pure-unmolested. The vines must be tended to like a child, paying attention to every action and reaction of each individual plant. The grape berries must be looked after, not only when on the vine, but throughout the entire process. Only after fermentation can the canvas begin to be take shape, and the masterpiece materializes. The finished product, the bottle, is this masterpiece, lying dormant only to wake and show its true form with the pull of a cork.

The morning of Christmas Eve was something of an adventure to say the least. I love Bordeaux, but damn if they could put up a sign or two for highway roads that would be helpful. It took quite some time to find the correct road and thus we were late to the appointment and tour. Upon arrival I was feeling a bit worried that we had missed the boat and were not going to be able to become acquainted with Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, and then our host Xavier emerged from a door and warmly greeted Margaux and myself. We luckily were able to join the tour, already in progress, and began in the vat room.

It is interesting because here I immediately had the impression that innovation and tradition met with great harmony.  New age ideas and technologies like an optical sorting system for the grapes when they enter the winery and satellite photo mapping of the vineyards met with traditions like gravity flow and press which went into the old style French oak fermentation casks.  Grapes go through a cold maceration for 2 days prior to the onset of fermentation at 8-10 Degrees Celsius.  This allows for stronger development of aromas in the wines.  Fermentation for the wine takes place at about 28-30 Degrees Celsius, with the red wine getting about 1 pump over a day for the 20 days of skin contact, including daily manual pigeage (punch downs).  In winemaking there is 2 wines, Vin de Goutte (1^st wine) which is the free run juice off of the skins, and Vin de Presse (2^nd wine) which is a much denser darker wine that is pressed off of the skins after the 1^st wine is run off.  At Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte only the second label red will receive any of this 2^nd wine, their Grand Vin is composed strictly of the 1^st wine.  The wines are kept completely separate throughout the aging period, both the reds and the whites, and only assembled at the end of the process before bottling will take place.       

“Inter Spinas Floret.”-Flowers Between the Spines

Often one will see rose bushes planted on the end of rows in vineyards.  When in bloom this of course adds to the beauty, but they perform a second, more important role as well.  Rosebushes are in the same family as the grape vines, and they are actually a warning sign to a vineyard manager of disease and pests.  The bushes will show the signs of these dangers much before the grape vine, thus acting as a defense mechanism, bravo.  The vineyards at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte total 67 Hectares, 56 red and 11 white.  The red vines are divided to about 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot.  The white vines are 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, and 5% Sauvignon Gris.  The average age of the vines are 38 years, with small plots of old vines up to 62 years of age.  The soil is the traditional gravelly/rocky composition of the top layer, which goes down up to 10 meters.  At this level there begins to be a much heavier composition of limestone and sand intermixed with a little clay.  One of the best features of the tour is being able to see the strata of the soil from the chai, quite an educational and interesting aspect to help people understand.  Another great part of the tour of the property is a stop into the cooper house.  Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte has its own cooper on hand, and you get to meet him and see his ‘office’ while there.  One man can do about 3 barrels a day, and so this truly is still a craft that is vital to the winemaking process.  This allows the staff to be able to control just one more aspect of the process.  Of course it is 100% French oak, Allier Troncais, and the barrels for the blanc receive a light+ toasting level while the rouge will receive a medium+ toasting. 

The estate itself originates back to the 17^th Century and the Du Boscq house.  This was the original family to select the hill, the haut, named Lafitte for the planting of the vineyards.  In 1720 and Englishman named George Smith purchased the property and continued its growth and prosperity.  He chose to affix his name to the title, and thus Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is born.  The current owners, the Cathiard family, acquired the site in 1990 and since then have worked diligently to improve the vineyards as well as the chateau.  The studying of the various vineyard plots has improved site selection, and their work with the winemaking process has raised the level of quality in the cellar.  The grounds and buildings have also been renovated, and Mrs. Cathiard has definitely added a wonderful artistic touch to the property with her keen eye.  I have to include the design of the private cellar in this category, a wonderful secret room that very few people I imagine get to see.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge 2007 Grand Cru Classe

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot

80% New French oak, Duration 18 Months

Production: Around 8500 Cases

2007 is considered by many a winemaker’s vintage. The season did not fully cooperate and so it was up to the management team and the winemaker’s skills to craft a wine of high quality.



The wine is Daybright with a garnet color which has a medium concentration. There is no gas or sediment and the wine overall has a youthful appearance with only a minor rim variation beginning to form. The tears have a slight staining, a softer extraction, and the viscosity of the tears is moderate.


The nose of this wine is clean with a medium intensity. The aromas give clues to the quality of the wine, but also the difficulties of the vintage. The fruits are black in character, black berries and black currants, but remain fresh and not overripe from a lot of sunlight during the season. There are also smoky and gamey qualities on the nose and I detected hints of menthol on the finish.


The palate on this wine shows the skill of the winemaker in the ability to deliver a wine of great balance. The fruits turn a bit towards the red side with the introduction of fresh cherries and red currants, while the smoky gamey quality remains. The wine is dry with medium tannins and acids, a good length to the finish. A spicy, peppery, taste mixes with soft minerals on the back end.

                                      Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2008 Grand Cru Classe


                                       90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris

50% New French oak, Duration 12 Months

Production: 2008 1300 Cases, normally around 2500 Cases

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is regarded by many as having one of the better white wines in all of Bordeaux. I was very excited to be able to taste the 2008, considered a strong vintage, and get to experience it firsthand. And yes, we tasted it after the red wine.



The wine is Starbright with a light straw yellow color. The wine has a medium concentration and does throw hints of green hues towards the rim in light. The wine looks very youthful with almost no rim variation formed and the tears have a medium plus viscosity.


The nose of this wine is clean with a medium plus intensity, strongly dominated by the Sauvignon Blanc aromas. Green flavors of gooseberry and green beans jump out of the glass, some lime citrus and grassy smoky undertones. The nose was complex and inviting.


The palate of this wine is ripe and focused, concentrating the ripeness of the Sauvignon Blanc while enhancing the flavors with the oak influence. For people that enjoy a white wine with proper oak influence, this is it. There were lemon and sweet lime notes over a creamy mouth feel. The wine was dry and medium bodied, with bright juicy acidity on a long, lingering finish. There was a great essence of grilled tropical fruits, mangos, on the back which only added wonderful character to this wine. Well done indeed!

Once again I would like to send a sincere thank you to our host Xavier Feuillerat for his hospitality and understanding of our tardiness. I found our conversation enlightening and enjoyable. I will credit his time spent in California for his laid back attitude towards the miss-step and the opportunity to view the ‘bottle cave.’ I definitely recommend seeking these wines out and trying them firsthand. I promise you will see the name pop up fairly soon in another article, Salute!



www.smith-haut-lafitte.com

Chateau Palmer

Chateau Palmer


Margaux, Bordeaux, France

Visited 23-12-2010

“Wine tasting is an encounter between two living beings, the human and the wine, surrendering to each other.”

Poetry in expression, poetry motion, poetry in the glass. Chateau Palmer is all three of these wrapped into one. Each person has their own set of beliefs and sayings, and I, like anyone, have certain beliefs when it comes to wine. I hate the pretentious atmosphere that encircles the world of fine wine, and always will I lead a crusade to bring fine wines to the forefront and expel their label as a luxury item and as cast the light of modern enjoyment onto them. For me, wine is a vessel, first and foremost in the form of transporting a story and a history to the consumer, but also I truly believe in the second form as that of a vessel of enjoyment at its core. It brings friends together and excites wonderful conversations, memories that only enhance the wonderful bouquet present. A bottle of Chateau Palmer, any vintage will do, will do just this, and so do not think of your next encounter with Chateau Palmer as the reason for the celebration, but rather a vessel in the celebration of life. I would sincerely like to thank two people for helping me continue to realize this fact. First my good friend Margaux who was present with me during the Christmas holiday 2010 for my tour of Bordeaux and made it so special. And secondly, a huge thanks to Celine Carrion our Wine Ambassador from Chateau Palmer who put the knowledge and history of the vineyards into our hearts, minds, and glasses so that I could pass them on to you.

I begin with the history of the property and the Gascq Family Estate from the 1700’s. With this establishment of the property we come quickly to the birth of the current name and the beginnings of its fame as a winemaking site. The story is not confirmed to be purely true and thus its appeal is even more mythical. It is the spring of 1814 and the newly widowed Madame Marie Brunet de Ferriere boards a stagecoach to take her to Paris to sell her estate. On this stagecoach happens to be an Englishman, Major General Charles Palmer (at the time he was only a Colonel) who is interested in a property in Bordeaux. Through charm, allure, and a bit of storytelling by the end of the coach ride a deal had been struck for the sale of the property, 100,000 Francs and 500 Liters of wine annually to the Madame. Major General Palmer paid off his debts by 1835 and thus the birth of Chateau Palmer was intact. In his time he expanded the holdings to 163 Hectares, the largest in all of Cantenac, and built 15 large vats as well as lodgings for workers. Even in the early stages Palmer was willing to overlook expenses, coining the motto, ‘Excellence over Cost!’

The second leg of the famed history of Chateau Palmer begins in 1853 with the brothers Pereire, Emile and Isaac. Partners in business and banking, they gained much prosperity with real estate and the railway development through free trade enterprising. The two brothers worked under the Rothschild’s in banking, and could very well have been a driving force for their interest in acquiring the estate. Whatever the reason, the case evidence proves that they were diligent in their efforts to improve the property. They hired a Mr. Lefort to operate the estate, who was considered one of the best in the wine business at the time. Also in 1856 they hired Charles Burguet to architect and construct the actual chateau. He had recently also finished construction of the chateau at Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac. The property was classified a 3rd Growth Grand Cru Classe in the 1855 Medoc Classification for the Paris Exhibition, but the medium level ranking was mainly due to the poor management of the previous short term ownership between Palmer and the Pereire brothers and their limited time to improve the lost status. As we know today, Chateau Palmer is still classified a 3rd Growth, but it far outperforms its moderate ranking.

1938 marks the modern period for the chateau. It was this year that a group of families including Fernand Ginestet, the Miaihle brothers, the Malher-Besses’, and the Sichels’ got together and formed a shareholders group to own and operate the chateau. This forming of the collective meant many good things for the property, including a rigorous check and balance system to ensure the highest quality standards throughout. Their first action was to title Pierre Chardon the Estate Manager, a man who intimately knew the chateau and its vineyards. With 1962 came the young Bertrand Bouteiller, son of then Director Jean, who was the son-in-law of majority owner Frederick Miaihle. With the sudden death of Jean, it was Bertrand who took over his fathers’ responsibilities on the estate and would carry out his efforts for the following 42 vintages. It is easy to overlook and difficult to put into words the importance of this man in the modern view of Chateau Palmer. With 2004 brought the end of an era and the birth of a new regime. Thomas Duroux took over for Bertrand, and to assist him as Technical Director he hired Sabrina Pernet. Rest assured their experience and knowledge are vast and the company is currently in good hands.

To talk of Chateau Palmer the place we must first understand the land. The commune of Margaux as a whole sits on the banks of the lower Gironde River in its estuary where the Dordogne and the Garonne converge. The soil is the traditional varying sizes of gravels, but also is composed of black sands intermixed with a bit of clay as one digs down, it is a mixture of alluviums. Today the property is 55 Hectares, equally divided with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (47% each), and the final 6% is Petite Verdot. The average age of the vines is 37 years. Depending on the vintage of course, manual harvesting usually begins with the Merlot in the end of September. The wines are all fermented in stainless steel these days, beginning with 1994 and the revamping of the vat room. Skin contact lasts about 20 days with pumping over occurring more frequently in the first half of that time. The wines are then put into barrels in the 1st year chai, also remodeled in the 1990’s, where maleolactic fermentation begins. All the wines are kept separate until February when the final decisions are made and the assemblage is carried out. Racking happens a few times through the aging process before the wines are fined by the traditional egg white method and bottled. And now onto the wines….



Alter Ego by Chateau Palmer 2007 Margaux

60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon

33% New French Oak, Duration 18 Months

In 1983 Bouteiller decided to begin making a second wine for the estate, ‘La Reserve du General’ which lasted for 15 vintages. In 1998, the focus was changed to make not a second wine seen as inferior to the Grand Vin, but rather a different style from the same terroir, and thus Alter Ego was born. The wine is meant to be more approachable at a younger stage with some more emphasis on fresh fruit through use of the younger vines and less new oak flavors being imparted. View it as a compliment to the Chateau Palmer label.

The wine is Starbright with a dark garnet coloring which is clear with a Medium plus concentration. There is no sign of gas or sediment and the rim variation is quite youthful. The wine shows a moderate, but not heavy viscosity with noticeable staining to the tears.

The nose is clean with a firm but not overwhelming intensity. The fruits are dark red berries, a bit fleshy in fact, with notes of smoke and coffee grounds. The minerality is light here, but already there are notes of dark earth present.

The palate of this wine is very pleasant indeed. Plump cherries and red plums emerge across a dry palate that is of medium body. The tannins are firm but forgiving due to the great balance and acidity present. The earth tones are confirmed and bit of sandy/rocky definition begins to emerge with some tobacco notes on a long juicy finish.

Chateau Palmer 1996 Grand Cru Classe Margaux

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petite Verdot

55% New French Oak, Duration 20 Months

Often it is not disclosed what will be presented and an unwritten rule in the wine business I feel is that you appreciate what is presented. I find that when tasting in California there is a much different approach to the presentation, a money machine at work if I may. Almost all the producers in Napa Valley, for example, will present current release wines from their label. This is done to limit on site inventory and produce a profit. Much a shame because often the wine is far too young to truly appreciate it in full. I am thankful the practice appears much different in Bordeaux.

The wine still has brightness to the deep garnet color. The clarity is beginning to fade a bit with the age but also due to the high concentration of the color, almost non transparent in fact. I do believe it is fair to say some sediment is very possible in a bottle of this maturity. I found the rim variation to be pronounced, but still with some youthful qualities intact. There is a moderate viscosity and definite staining to the tears.

A wine with a definite character, a true expression of Margaux. The aromas were still powerful, but had all the softness of bottle bouquet expected. The fruits took on a dried/preserved quality, currants and cherries, and the secondary flavors were alive with tobacco/cigar box notes and a wonderful subtle dark floral note on the back that lingered.

The wine was greatly structured, still having the feel of such youth and longevity evident. The palate was dry with tart berry fruits and mellow silky tannins, with all the great earthy aromas and flavors lingering on a long persistent finish. A true delight.

A great tour and a wonderful tasting to finish off the day. Again a special thanks to Celine for all of her hospitality and I look forward to carrying on the Palmer experience with those that I encounter. Salute!

http://www.chateau-palmer.com/