The end of the year is always an exciting time in the wine business because it’s a time for reflection and to look back and remember some of the stars. Also it’s a great time because you really get the opportunity to share wines with family and friends, something I love to do because it means sharing things I hold dear with those I hold close to my heart. Today I wish to discuss my interpretation of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year, which was released earlier this week. I have been a subscriber to the magazine for about 4 years now and it is one of my favorite annual articles that they do. I always like looking and seeing what I have tasted, what I am selling, and what I should be looking for next time I go shopping and/or talking to my distributors. This year I can sum up my opinion about the list in one word: Disappointing. Especially compared to last year’s list, this year was about as exciting bologna and yellow mustard on stale white bread. Allow me to elaborate….
Last year the focus was to help the consumer and the aim was great value wines and wines that were for the most part fairly widely accessible in the marketplace. Well last time I checked the economy hadn’t gotten any better anywhere and consumers, at least all the ones that I know, are still looking for great value wines. My next point to make is concerning education. I am a Certified Sommelier; it is my job to know about the various wines of the world and to help educate those that I encounter who wish to learn. I feel that Wine Spectator, the most popular wine periodical, has the same responsibility. This not only concerns new wines and regions, but also classics with a longstanding history. My first examples are the wine regions of Bordeaux and Champagne. Arguably the two most famous regions in the world, they combine represent 2% of the Top 100, one selection each- #53 and #96. For a comparison, there are 4 California Chardonnays in the Top 27. Now I can fully understand that regions can vary from year to year in quality, but still, there must be a better recognition and distribution of selections. Take Italian wines. Italy and France go back and forth about every year as to who produces the most wine in the world. This year the whole of Italy has 9 selections, 7 of which are Tuscan. Now living in Tuscany and being a lover of Tuscan wines that is great, but when I looked at what the selections were it was a real let down. Big money producers like Ruffino, Avignonesi, and Frescobaldi to name a few make great wines definitely, but it seems a bit suspicious to me that these are the most exciting Tuscan wines rated, hmmm? Also take the top ranking Tuscan/Italian wine this year #8 Fontodi Flaccianello 2007 (95 points, $110). I have never tasted it, a pure Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico region, and am sure it is good, but the 2006 was also in the Top 10 last year and was rated the highest Italian wine of the year in 2009, at 99 points. Something here seems off. Tuscany has 7 wines in the Top 100, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has 7 selections in the Top 25, and most of those are over $100 a bottle. My last remark I will leave you with, one that really makes me question the motives of Wine Spectator refers to the #14 wine of the year, Dow’s 2007 Vintage Port. This is a wine I have had the pleasure of having around a handful of older vintages and truly is a magnificent wine, and at about $80 a bottle and 100 points, Perfect Score, it is an amazing value. How is this wine #14 and not in the top 3, it makes no sense whatsoever.
Wine Spectator is offering free views for the next day or two for non-members of their Top 100; if you cannot see it I would be happy to send you the list so that you may look it over for yourself.
So as I sign off I give you my advice, listen to your own ratings and scores and use periodicals as nothing more than suggestions. They get paid to publish things and you get pleasure out of enjoying a good bottle of wine. Listen to yourself and enjoy the journey of finding those great bottles along the way. Salute!
For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Southern Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!
